Unknown's avatar

Handmade Artists, A Site For Sore Artists

Happy Friday,

This morning I would like to share some of the wonderful things that handmadeartists.com has to offer.

Many of you claim you love etsy, Ok that’s fair.  However the big orange E has turned away from its original goal, and become the Walmart of the internet.  Such a  shame.  Many artists, artisans, and makers of beautiful things have jumped etsy’s ship, or been forcibly removed from the site or other sites due to one perceived infraction or another.  I would like to show you how simple it is for you as a buyer or seller to use Handmade Artists.  Buyer accounts are always free!

This is the Home Page or the top of it.  From here you can access all of the neat stuff on the site.  The Categories menu takes you to all the fabulous and must have items that vendors have for sale.


Let me first say that their service is absolutely impeccable!  Seller or buyer account holders will always receive the highest level of quality customer service and care that I have ever had the pleasure to experience.  They have also upgraded and expanded their servers, this has allowed for a faster site along with room to grow.

Buyers and others you will not be disappointed.  Structured very much like etsy, they have many amenities, like the Forum, Seller Shops, Highlights, and a Blog right there on the home page so you can keep up with the latest trends and advice or just reading about a topic that interests you.

You do have to sign up, which is easy, simple and super quick.

 
For the artists, if you are unsatisfied with etsy or other sites, art fire or what have you, take a look at what handmade artists has to offer:
Your Shop account is just $5.00 a month or $50.00  a year.  That is cheaper than listing 20 items on etsy and re-listing them every four months for a year.  A real value for the money, and you can list a lot of items, I won’t say unlimited, there is a cap, but I don’t think any one is going to list 10,000 or more items so it might as well be unlimited.  Best part is, your listing never expires, as long as your monthly shop fee is paid, your item is there forever!  Bonus!

The forum, talk about friendly, happy people.  Got a question, you will get an answer, have a problem, there is support, just want to hang out and chat, yup, they have that too.  There is even a scheduled forum chat every Thursday night.

Sign Up is easy, and although there is not a “transfer” files button, this gives you an opportunity to list your items fresh.  The item page is quick, easy and intuitive! Plus there are all kinds of categories in which to list your item, choose the one that is right for your item.  Get in now while it is still small.  578 shops and growing everyday!  Also a roll by or marquis is included, and your shop will appear in the list below on the home page!

  Sellers and Buyers, worried about security and your information?   The site is safe, secure, and uses Pay Pal.  I myself have made several sales and have found it to be a simple and hassle free process.  I know, I know, some of you have had issues with pay pal.  Don’t forget that many of the artists are willing to make other arrangements to make sure the item you desire gets to you!

Highlights.  What is a highlight?  If you have used Etsy or looked at a friends “Treasury” you know what a Highlight is.  Created by Sellers and Buyers alike,  20 items are chosen from around the site and compile a list of favorites, give it a theme, or use it to enter one of the many contests the site hosts.

Selected items from the winner of Highlight Contest #29, the prize was a $25.00 Gift Certificate to any of the shops on Handmade Artists.

 Let’s talk about Promotion.  You know the squeaky wheel gets the grease, and are there some squeaky wheels over there.  You can only promote yourself so much; but at Handmade Artists, they do it for you as well.  Your items are shared by the powers that be and forum members as well.  They post / share things on Facebook, Pinterest, have a Google Community page, and you can feature yourself on their blog (just fill out the questionnaire and watch Kimberly turn in to a wonderful article all about YOU and YOUR SHOP!)  The perks are almost endless, and the site is just a lot of fun too.

Participate in the Blog Ring, sign up to contribute to the site’s blog.  Get connected with other artists in your area, post a photo of your newest item and watch the shares roll out.

Frankly there is no better place to sell or be a seller on the internet.  Buyers, all this is available to you as well, you don’t have to make things to play on the site.  Join the Forum, see what those clever and crafty people are up to, throw out suggestions, talk about your favorite pet.  Whatever, the forum is there to cultivate communication and community.

I would also like to mention that this year Handmade Artists was nominated for a Shorty Award.  An award given by Twitter for the use of its site to promote small business on Social Platforms. Handmade Artists came in 8th.  Not too shabby.

Want to check out more?

Pinterest Page
Facebook Page
Google Community Page
Linked In
Twitter 
It’s Better Handmade
It's Better Handmade!

On Fire For Handmade 
On Fire for Handmade!

 

Unknown's avatar

Featured Artist – Finding Charm

Good Morning,

It is my pleasure to introduce a new member of the blog ring and handmadeartists.com forum, although she does not have a shop on the site you can find her budget friendly jewelry on Etsy.  Links to the shop, blog and other ways for Finding Charm are listed below.

What Sarah says about her jewelry:

“I started making jewelry because I had outfits I just couldn’t find that perfect piece to go with. So I thought I’d buy some beads and give it a try. I was hooked, it’s almost an addiction! It’s important to me that I create charming pieces that don’t break the bank. I started getting compliments and requests and decided I should help others in their journey of finding charm.


She really does have some very cute and super affordable jewelry.  Just in time for Christmas, let’s have a look at some of her lovely and charming Holiday themed pieces.

Christmas Tree and Pearl Beaded Lanyard
Christmas Tree and Pearl Beaded Lanyard Christmas Tree and Pearl Beaded Lanyard Christmas Tree and Pearl Beaded Lanyard Christmas Tree and Pearl Beaded Lanyard Christmas Tree and Pearl Beaded Lanyard

Silver Christmas trees? Fun, spirited Christmas Tree and Pearl Beaded Lanyard is made with silver Christmas trees and red, green, and silver pearls. Wooden silver painted trees are the focal point on this whimsical id badge holder. Look closely, and you will see clear crystals inside the trees and subtle gold splatters resembling garland. The shimmering red and silver plastic pearls are the same size and slightly larger than the smaller green.

* The lanyard measures 22 inches to the bottom of the badge hook.

Work in retail? Make your customers smile wearing a holiday id badge holder.
   

Christmas Green, Red Lampwork Bracelet for Large Wrist

Christmas Green, Red Lampwork Bracelet for Large Wrist
Christmas Green, Red Lampwork Bracelet for Large Wrist Christmas Green, Red Lampwork Bracelet for Large Wrist Christmas Green, Red Lampwork Bracelet for Large Wrist Christmas Green, Red Lampwork Bracelet for Large Wrist Christmas Green, Red Lampwork Bracelet for Large Wrist

Have a holly jolly Christmas with this Christmas Green, Red Lampwork Bracelet for a Large Wrist. Round green and red polka dot lampwork beads nestle between red rectangle and green polka dot, white stripe lampwork beads. The beads remind me of presents and candy.

* The bracelet measures 8 1/2 inches.
* The green beads are 1/2 wide and the red beads are 3/4 inch long and 1/2 inch wide. Crystal green beads add more shine and so do the round silver spacer beads. A simple silver toggle clasp is used.

Silver Circle Colorful Beaded Long Earrings
Silver Circle Colorful Beaded Long Earrings Silver Circle Colorful Beaded Long Earrings Silver Circle Colorful Beaded Long Earrings Silver Circle Colorful Beaded Long Earrings Silver Circle Colorful Beaded Long Earrings

These Silver Circle Long Earrings are just charming. Turquoise, purple, red, and iridescent black charms hang from a circle. Great to put on and go out dancing because they are lightweight. Or wear them with a simple outfit to add a bit of color, charm, and something unexpected.

* Earrings dangle 3 1/2 inches
* Circles are 3/4 inch wide
* Largest charms are 1/4 long

Sarah has lots of other very pretty things in her shop.  Don’t see anything that tickles your fancy?  Contact her, she can help you find that special piece of jewelry just for you.

Need to find some charm of your own?  You can find and follow this charming gal and her creations at any of the listed links:

Finding Charm on Etsy
Facebook
Blog
eCrater 
Zibbet
Artfire

Thank you for stopping in and having a look.

The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant day.


 

Unknown's avatar

Featured Artitsts – Blog from Handmade Artists

Good Morning.

I hope all have recovered from the frightening festivities of last night.

Thursday’s are devoted to an artist and their work, as we have reached the end of the blog ring, and there is no other artist to feature, I have decided to copy and paste another blog post.  Shameless self promotion?  Sort of.

You may read the feature here Featured Artist : Alixandra of The Alchemists Vessel, as posted on Handmade Artists Blog, by Making The Best of It.  or you can read the article below.

Featured Artist Alixandra of The Alchemists Vessel

Handmade silver earringsCrayons, play-doh, painting, knitting, anything to keep her hands moving; this is how Alixandra describes herself from the very beginning. Born and raised in sunny San Francisco,California; Alixandra spent her childhood surrounded by the wonderful art of the area whether is was going to the Japanese Tea Garden or the California Academy of Sciences or DeYoung Museum surrounded by form and color.  This love of art has followed her throughout her life.

Romanov Earrings Alixandra is currently a self supporting artist but has been a volunteer Docent/Animal Handler or the San Francisco Zoo and managed large crews for a landscaping company.  When she is not busy working, Alixandra loves to read and spend time in the great outdoors of her new home base of Boise,Idaho.  She takes these beautiful nature scenes and allows them to feed her passion for life.

handmade silver pendantWhile this talented lady still dabbles in many different mediums, her heart has found a home with jewelry, which ironically, she does not wear herself!  She leaves herself open when it comes to raw materials and works with everything from PMC (Precious Metal Clay) to natural gemstones as well as traditional materials such as wire and beads.  She also does the most amazingly beautiful chainmaille I have ever had the honor of seeing.  She is self taught, seeing a process and teaching herself through research and trail and error to make it for herself.  Alixandra is always learning and has even recently enrolled in a Jewelry Design and Repair Tech class in order to upgrade some of her natural skills and learn some new materials and equipment.

handmade persian chainmaille braceletAlixandra says that it is the sparkle of metal in the sun or romantic candlelight as well as how different elements combine to create something wonderful that keeps her creativity flowing.  She loves to take the ordinary and create something extraordinary that will make the wearer feel special.  This drive to create soon meant that her home was filled to rim with her creations.  In her own words, “Racks of earrings, hangers bowing beneath the weight of necklaces and bracelets, boxes and organizers full of beads and strung cluttered the living area.”  Her, up until then, patient housemate finally announced that some of it had to go and The Alchemist Vessel was born!  Since them, Alixandra has had the honor of working with boutiques as well as creating custom work for birthdays and weddings as well as selling her creations in person at the Treasure Valley Flea Market where she gets to enjoy the social atmosphere and seeing customer’s reaction to her work first hand.  She is also currently sharing her talents with clients by teaching classes at her local Jo-Ann Fabric store.

handmade chainmaillle lanyardAfter some trial and error, Alixandra is willing to share some information to those looking to become self supporting artists themselves.  The biggest thing to remember…it is a lot of HARD WORK!  She understands that too many fall into the trap of believing it will be all fun and games and once you put your creations out there, the orders will just roll in…ummmmm…..no.  The first thing you must do is research and figure out what is going to make you different from what is already out there, your time and cost (including time for creating, photographing, editing, promoting, shipping…and you better schedule some sleep time!) as well as if you are willing to let go of your hard worked piece.  Alixandra readily admits to putting in 12-14 hour days regularly and as soon as you slow down so will your sales.
This is not to say it can’t be done!  The Alchemists Vessel is living proof that a woman with a passion and a talent and a drive can create a very successful business!  Alixandra is easy to find all over the web starting with HandmadeArtists and Etsy as well as her own Website.  You can like her on Face Book, YouTube, Dailymotion and LinkedIn and follow her adventures through her Blog!  Once you see her work, I have no doubt that you will quickly fall in love with her clean designs and interesting combinations that can only come from an artists’ mind.

Find other articles and fabulous gifts or something for yourself at Handmade Artists.

A very special thank you to Kimberly Kitchen for putting together the article.

The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a very pleasant day.

 

Unknown's avatar

CUTTLEBONE CASTING PART III – Re-Blog Complete With Pictures

 

Monday!  

I hope every one is still enjoying their Holiday Weekend.

The first time this was posted I was experiences some technical difficulties, and after consulting an iMac savvy friend,  I have picture upload once again!

If you would like to follow along or have just started to read here, may I suggest reading (or taking a brief scan)
Cuttlebone Casting Part I – Materials and Model Making
Cuttlebone Casting Part II – Model and Mold Preparation

PART III Casting the project.
TOOLS:
Tin Alloy Soldering Wire (4 tubes, 20 feet)
Mini-Torch
Prepared Cuttlebone Mold
Vice Grip or Prop
Safety Gear
Goggles / Glasses
Gloves, leather shoe strings (something to wrap the spoon handle) 

NOTE:  The sample casting shown used 2 to 2-1/2 tubes of Tin Alloy Solder, your project may require more or less depending on size of the model and depth of the impression.

SAFETY FIRST!  This lesson consists of playing with fire, and I mean literally.  Temperatures reach 400 degrees and possibly higher!  Be aware of your surroundings and your work area!  Remove any and all distractions and make sure you have an uninterrupted block of time in which to work.  Although this portion of the process is fairly quick, you must pay attention to what you are doing!  Turn off your cell-phone, send the kids outside to play, give the hubby a “Honey-Do” list and feed the dog; you must be and remain focused!

Last time we made a wax model and a mold from simple and easy to obtain materials.  Today we are going to complete the process and show the steps for actually casting the piece.  The step-by-step process for creating a mold may be read in CuttleboneCasting Part II – Model and Mold Preparation.
The cuttlebone mold is now ready for molten metal.  Cuttlebones are naturally heat resistant.  This means that they can withstand high heat without distorting in shape, and make wonderful molds for just that reason.  They are also a completely natural tool with no added chemicals and won’t harm the environment.  Eco-friendly jewelry creation, that’s a plus! 

PRE-CASTING PREPARATIONS:

Prepare your work area.  Make sure it is free of anything flammable and fluttery that might catch fire or drift into the molten metal.  Place your mold in the Vice Grip or other object you have chosen to keep it steady and upright.  Get your spoon (or whatever you’re going to use to melt the metal in), torch, and tin alloy lined up, ready to go, and easily accessed! 
**TIP:  Trim the tin alloy coils into smaller pieces; this will make melting and adding it to the already melted material much easier.
NOTE:  Unlike other casting processes that use high-speed centrifuges or kiln (oven) burn out cycles (Lost Wax Casting) to distribute the material to the mold, all that is working here is gravity!  Pouring the molten metal into the mold is like filling a glass with sand, the material will be layered as you pour it into the mold.

Here I have the cuttlebone mold in a prop to keep it upright and steady as material is poured.  Closed with Rubber bands and waiting for metal to be melted and poured.

MELT THE METAL / FILL THE MOLD:
*The Spoon will reach temperatures of up to 400 degrees (the melting point of the tin alloy is 374-degrees), USE PROTECTIVE MEASURES!  Leather gloves or wrap the end with leather shoestrings to keep the heat away form your hands and fingers.

Begin by adding a small amount of the Tin Alloy to the spoon.  Cut bits off the coil first to make this easier.  Let it sit in the bowl of the spoon.  Do not try to melt the whole coil all at once.   Using a mini-torch, hold the spoon just above the flame and melt the metal in the spoon, continue to add bits of metal until the spoon is full.

The flame has not been turned on for these pictures, that would be hazardous to my heath and the I’d burn the house down.  These are to show the spoon’s position it should be held up and away from the nozzle of your torch and the flame allowed to heat the bowl of the spoon from underneath.
Because the soldering material is a tin / rosin core alloy, you will see the rosin left behind in the spoon, and some smoke may rise as the rosin burns away.  That is the brown discoloration on the spoon and mold.  Rosin comes from trees and is a brittle solid form of resin, it is used as a flux in some soldering materials to help the metal melt and flow at an even rate.  This discoloration will not appear on your piece, this is left behind after the melting process. 
NOTE:  The molten metal will pool in the bowl of the spoon.  Adding pieces of material closer to the pool will help it to melt and incorporate into the ever growing puddle of metal.  It will slide around in the spoon hold the spoon steady while melting is in process. 
Coil melting into pool of molten metal
Melted puddle of metal.
Continue to add pieces of the Tin Alloy until the spoon is full, or until you think there is enough metal to fill the mold.
Carefully pour the contents of the spoon into the Sprue Hole and down the Sprue Channel.
Repeat the melting and pouring process until your mold is full, if necessary.  You will have to look through the Sprue Hole and do a little guessing here to be sure that the material has filled the mold (impression) completely.  You DO NOT want to fill the Vent Gates or Sprue Channel, just enough metal to fill the mold of the Cross.

Instant Gratification…. Well almost.  After the mold is full, wait a full ten to fifteen minutes for the metal to solidify and harden.  The mold will also be cooling down during this time, making it a little easier to handle.

Here you can see the burn mark on the top of mold, where the spoon touched the surface of the cuttlebone.  The cuttlebone sits in its prop cooling down while the metal is solidifying.

Once time is up, carefully remove the binding from the outside of the mold, unwind the wire, slip off the rubber bands (whatever was used) gently, keeping the mold closed as you do this.  If you used Duct Tape (and I told you not to) you will have to cut it away with a razor-blade where the two halves of the mold meet and split the mold open like a book.

 
Well looky there!  You have a metal pendant!  TAH-DAH!
 
The tin alloy is soft enough that you can drill a hole in the top of the cross using a drill bit and your hand for a bail to be glued (soldered) into place.
FINAL FINISHING:
 
Using Sandpaper and a file, will “clean” up the casting.  Some of the metal over flowed the mold impression and will have to be removed.  You can also see the natrual pattern of the cuttlebone has left surface impressions as well.  These may be left as is or sanded, filed and polished.
 
Cleaned, sanded and filed casting. The bone’s pattern has created a line in the  surface of the cross
 
To complete my pendant, I will seat the simulated Garnet into the center hole of the Cross.  Using a brass rod that I have ground to a 45-deegree angle at one end, I will finish the pilot hole for the gem and seat it in to place.  Using a craft knife or razor blade, I will then create PRONGS by scraping some of the metal from the Cross up and over the gemstone in four evenly spaced places around the stone’s setting.
Complete Cross before scrapping prongs and final polishing.
Although this will leave dents in the exterior of the Cross surface, it will help secure the stone into place.

 After the gemstone setting is complete I will use a Polishing Cloth (these have chemicals embedded in the material) and gently rub the surface of the piece, polishing it and giving a little shine.

It is now ready to be displayed or worn on chain or lanyard.

Thank you so much for stopping by and having a look, and if you have followed the whole series, thank you for sticking with us.  We hope you have enjoyed this brief look in to one of the many casting processes available and used for jewelry-making.

The Alchemists Vessel would  like to wish you a pleasant day.

**Want something like this, but don’t want to do it yourself?  Custom work is available.  All custom molding projects begin at $50.00 this includes Design materials and Mock Up of your custom piece before casting.  Precious Metals are available for this process.

 

Unknown's avatar

Cuttlebone Casting Part III – Casting The Piece

 

Hello,

Please note, due to technical difficulties some of the photos for this tutorial are not shown (photo error), this post will be updated once the photo upload decides to cooperate.  We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause and are working to rectify the situation.

This is the final stage in casting a piece of jewelry with a cuttlebone mold.  If you have not been following along or have just discovered this series, please refer to the previous posts for an overview.
 

Cuttlebone Casting – Part II Model and Mold Preparation

PART III Casting the project.
TOOLS:
Tin Alloy Soldering Wire (4 tubes, 20 feet)
Mini-Torch
Prepared Cuttlebone Mold
Vice Grip or Prop
Safety Gear
Goggles / Glasses
Gloves, leather shoe strings (something to wrap the spoon handle) 

NOTE:  The sample casting shown used 2 to 2-1/2 tubes of Tin Alloy Solder, your project may require more or less depending on size of the model and depth of the impression.

SAFETY FIRST!  This lesson consists of playing with fire, and I mean literally.  Temperatures reach 400 degrees and possibly higher!  Be aware of your surroundings and your work area!  Remove any and all distractions and make sure you have an uninterrupted block of time in which to work.  Although this portion of the process is fairly quick, you must pay attention to what you are doing!  Turn off your cell-phone, send the kids outside to play, give the hubby a “Honey-Do” list and feed the dog; you must be and remain focused!
Last time we made a wax model and a mold from simple and easy to obtain materials.  Today we are going to complete the process and show the steps for actually casting the piece.  The step-by-step process for creating a mold may be read in CuttleboneCasting Part II – Model and Mold Preparation.
The cuttlebone mold is now ready for molten metal.  Cuttlebones are naturally heat resistant.  This means that they can withstand high heat without distorting in shape, and make wonderful molds for just that reason.  They are also a completely natural tool with no added chemicals and won’t harm the environment.  Eco-friendly jewelry creation, that’s a plus!
PRE-CASTING PREPARATIONS:
Prepare your work area.  Make sure it is free of anything flammable and fluttery that might catch fire or drift into the molten metal.  Place your mold in the Vice Grip or other object you have chosen to keep it steady and upright.  Get your spoon (or whatever you’re going to use to melt the metal in), torch, and tin alloy lined up, ready to go, and easily accessed! 
**TIP:  Trim the tin alloy coils into smaller pieces; this will make melting and adding it to the already melted material much easier.
(Photo error)
NOTE:  Unlike other casting processes that use high-speed centrifuges or kiln (oven) burn out cycles (Lost Wax Casting) to distribute the material to the mold, all that is working here is gravity!  Pouring the molten metal into the mold is like filling a glass with sand, the material will be layered as you pour it into the mold.

Here I have the cuttlebone mold in a prop to keep it upright and steady as material is poured.  Closed with Rubber bands and waiting for metal to be melted and poured.

MELT THE METAL / FILL THE MOLD:
*The Spoon will reach temperatures of up to 400 degrees (the melting point of the tin alloy is 374-degrees), USE PROTECTIVE MEASURES!  Leather gloves or wrap the end with leather shoestrings to keep the heat away form your hands and fingers.
Begin by adding a small amount of the Tin Alloy to the spoon.  Cut bits off the coil first to make this easier.  Let it sit in the bowl of the spoon.  Do not try to melt the whole coil all at once.   Using a mini-torch, hold the spoon just above the flame and melt the metal in the spoon, continue to add bits of metal until the spoon is full.
The flame has not been turned on for these pictures, that would be hazardous to my heath and the I’d burn the house down.  These are to show the spoon’s position it should be held up and away from the nozzle of your torch and the flame allowed to heat the bowl of the spoon from underneath.
Because the soldering material is a tin / rosin core alloy, you will see the rosin left behind in the spoon.  That is the brown discoloration you see.  Rosin comes from trees and is a brittle solid form of resin, it is used as a flux in some soldering materials to help the metal melt and flow at an even rate.  This discoloration will not appear on your piece, this is left behind after the melting process.
NOTE:  The molten metal will pool in the bowl of the spoon.  Adding pieces of material closer to the pool will help it to melt and incorporate into the ever growing puddle of metal.  It will slide around in the spoon hold the spoon steady while melting is in process. 
(Photo error)
Continue to add pieces of the Tin Alloy until the spoon is full.
Carefully pour the contents of the spoon into the Sprue Hole and down the Sprue Channel.
Repeat the melting and pouring process until your mold is full, you will have to look through the Sprue Hole and do a little guessing here to be sure that the material has filled the mold (impression) completely.  You DO NOT want to fill the Vent Gates or Sprue Channel, just enough metal to fill the mold of the Cross.
Instant Gratification…. Well almost.  After the mold is full, wait a full ten to fifteen minutes for the metal to solidify and harden.  The mold will also be cooling down during this time, making it a little easier to handle.
Here you can see the burn mark on the top of mold, where the spoon touched the surface of the cuttlebone.  Here the cuttlebone sits in its prop cooling down while the metal is solidifying.
Once time is up, carefully remove the binding from the outside of the mold, unwind the wire, slip off the rubber bands (whatever was used) gently, keeping the mold closed as you do this.  If you used Duct Tape (and I told you not to) you will have to cut it away with a razor-blade where the two halves of the mold meet and split the mold open like a book.
(Photo error)
Well looky there!  You have a metal pendant!  TAH-DAH!
(Photo error)
The tin alloy is soft enough that you can drill a hole in the top of the cross using a drill bit and your hand for a bail to be glued (soldered) into place.
FINAL FINISHING:
To complete my pendant, I will seat the simulated Garnet into the center hole of the Cross.  Using a brass rod that I have ground to a 45-deegree angle at one end, I will finish the pilot hole for the gem and seat it in to place.  Using a craft knife or razor blade, I will then create PRONGS by scraping some of the metal from the Cross up and over the gemstone in four evenly spaced places around the stone’s setting.
Although this will leave dents in the exterior of the Cross surface, it will help secure the stone into place.
After the gemstone setting is complete I will use a Polishing Cloth (these have chemicals embedded in the material) and gently rub the surface of the piece, polishing it and giving a little shine.
It is now ready to be displayed or worn on chain or lanyard.
Thank you so much for stopping by and having a look, and if you have followed the whole series, thank you for sticking with us.  We hope you have enjoyed this brief look in to one of the many casting processes available and used for jewelry-making.
The Alchemists Vessel would  like to wish you a pleasant day.
**Want something like this, but don’t want to do it yourself?  Custom work is available.  All custom molding projects begin at $50.00 this includes Design materials and Mock Up of your custom piece before casting in the material of your choice!  Precious Metals are available for this process. Please feel free to return for the updated post, once I get the photos to cooperate! 

 

Unknown's avatar

Thursday Feature – Etsy Tips

 

Greetings,
 
This morning I find myself sans an artist to feature.  So instead of featuring a single artist, I thought it might be interesting to give some tips, tricks and things I have learned about Etsy, and how to use the site.
 
What is Etsy?
 
Many people have never heard of Etsy.  To quote a friend, “Etsy is the World’s garage sale“.  Actually it is kind of like the World’s garage sale, there are thousands of shops to peruse and all of it is handmade, unless you are searching for supplies for your handmade goodies.  Buyer accounts are free to sign up for.
 
Shop Presence, what is it, how do you do it?
 
Shop Presence is a buzz word for really nothing at all.  The idea behind it is that your shop stands out or is more present (accessible) than another.  What does this entail?  Building your store front, banner, shop items, and even your avatar count to draw people into your shop. Yes, the shop name may be important as well.
 
Shop Name:  “The Alchemists Vessel” doesn’t give you any idea about what I do, however the name does give some idea of what you might find at my shop.  Gemstones, crystals, pendulums, unique items of unknown origin.   Think about the name and what it says about your shop.  “Kay’s Jeweler‘s” leaves nothing to guess at, you know that Kay sells Jewelry.
As a seller / vendor you have about seven (7) seconds to grab and hold a shoppers attention before they click through to another shop or site.  How can you grab and hold on to that customer’s / shopper’s attention?  With your store front, of course. 
 
Make it interesting, colorful and informative.  The first thing a customer should notice is what you’re offering!  Jewelry, Paintings, Knitted items, whatever, make sure that the customer knows they are in the right place to find what they are looking for.
 
The Banner:  The banner is just that, a big Title Block image at the top of the page.  This is mine.
It reads:  “Decorating extraordinary people with extraordinary jewelry”. (A bit hard to read at this size, I know).
 
This banner tells you what I do, I offer “extraordinary jewelry”, and of course the person shopping certainly feels that they are extraordinary anyway.
 
Your Shop banner should give some indication of what you do, sell or what business you are venturing. (Photography, knitting, painting, sculpting, whatever).
This is the old banner.  Pictures of beads give you a “visual clue” as to what you may find at the shop, and “Extraordinary Ornamentation” is the confirmation.
 

Avatar:  Your avatar is the picture that represents you on the site.  Many people use a portion of their banner, an image or a picture of themselves.  I have found that a portrait (picture of the seller) works much better than an image or other graphic. People tend to trust a face more than an icon.  You all know what I look like, no sense in posting my own.

Store Front / Items:  There are several schools of thought on this, I will share a couple.
 
A “full store front”.  Some shops do not have enough merchandise to fill up the allotted 24 item boxes on the front page of the shop.  The more you add the more pages will automatically be created.  Apparently it is important to keep at least 24 items in the shop, there is no explanation as to why.  It does however look better to have a full front page.
 
Featured Items: These are items chosen from your shop that you wish to feature on your shops front or home page.  They are underneath the banner and on top of the 24 items on your front page.  These items should reflect the BEST you have to offer.  If possible be sure that the featured items are not also listed on the front page of the shop.
 
Variety:  I know it is within our nature to organize like things with like things.  However piling all your earrings on the front page when you also sell bracelets or necklaces isn’t going to get those other things noticed or sold!  Diversify the listings, try to look at the page as a catalog of all your merchandise.  A customer / shopper can see that you also carry bracelets and necklaces as well as earrings.   Try to group things vertically and horizontally, this goes with that which could be paired with the other thing.
 
Currently my front page does not reflect this and I need to do a little re-arranging.
 
Pictures:  Yes, they are so important.  Clear, focused photos are best.  
Try to take your photos in natural light.  
Do not clutter up the background with stuff, you want people to look at the item not what’s in the background.
Use a neutral background, like a gray color, that will not interfere or compete with your item.
Try to take a detail photo, a close up tight shot that shows the pattern, texture, stitch or accent up close.
 
Remember: Shopping is a tactile experience, people want to pick up the item, look at it, scrutinize it before spending their hard-earned pennies on something!  Try to take pictures that will give the on-line shopper the sense that they have viewed it from all possible angles and given it the full attention it deserves before buying.
 
I hope some of this has helped.  Good luck fellow vendors!
 
Thank you for stopping by and having a look.
 

The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant Thursday.

 

Unknown's avatar

Cuttlebone Casting Part I – Materials and Model Making

 

Good Morning,
 
Monday is here bright, and still smoky from all the fires in the surrounding states.
 
Today and throughout the next couple of  days and weeks we will take a look at a method of casting a piece of jewelry from easily obtained materials.  No special equipment is required for this project, although you will need a heat source that can reach temperatures of up to and over 400-degrees.
The materials are easily obtained and there is quite a bit of preparation required.  Part I includes materials, and preparing the mold for the model.  We will also discuss designing and making the model briefly, and it will be covered in full in Part II.  I emphasize DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!  I did, but that doesn’t mean you should!
Let’s begin.
For this project the following materials and tools are required:
A Cuttlebone
Jeweler’s Saw
Jeweler’s Modeling Wax (Green)
Mini-Torch (Butane)
Gloves (Leather workman’s gloves)
Pencil
Brass Rods
320 to 600 Grit Sandpaper
File (Small Rasp / Crafting File)
Tin Soldering Material (Lead-Free Tin Alloy) 4 tubes (20 feet)
Paper
Pin
Small Vice Grip / Prop (Optional, but really should find something)
3mm Simulated Garnet Faceted “gemstone”. (Optional)
Rubber bands  or Molding Wire
Gloves or Leather Shoe Strings (Leather workman’s glove is best)
Safety Glasses or Goggles
Painter’s Mask  (Respirator – Paper Surgical Mask)
Lighter Fluid
Soft Cloth or Paper towel.
This is a cuttlebone.  It comes from a cuttlefish, very much like a squid or octopus.  You can find these at your local Pet Stores and stores that carry pet supplies.  They are inexpensive, and a little difficult to work with as they are very brittle and break very easily.  (These provide essential nutrients for your feathered pal!)  They do come in different sizes and the bigger the better.
Cuttlebones are naturally heat resistant.  This means that they can withstand high heat without distorting in shape, and make wonderful molds for just that reason.  They are also a completely natural tool with no added chemicals and won’t harm the environment.  Eco-friendly jewelry creation, that’s a plus!
PREPARE THE CUTTLEBONE:
First, remove the metal bar that allows you to attach it to a cage.  Using a jewelers saw cut the cuttlebone in half. 
 
 
Using 320 to 600 grit Sandpaper, sand the flat sides of the halves as smooth as possible.  Remember any imperfection will transfer to the final piece.  Since there are natural patterns in the bone itself, it is almost impossible to get a perfectly smooth surface.  This is a great process for rustic or primitive-look pieces that you wish to create.  When sanding it is a good idea to do so on a piece of paper or over an area that can be cleaned easily.  The bone dust is very fine and will get into everything.  You may wish to wear a painters mask when sanding the cuttlebone halves.

These are very small and get smaller with sawing and sanding.  Choose two sides that you have sanded and match them up, by laying one half on top of the other. This looks pretty good.  Set these aside someplace safe.  Do not drop them, or you will have to begin again.  These are very brittle and break easily.  Gentle pressure is all that is required.  Remember you’re making jewelry not mining for ore!  Death Grips will damage and in some cases destroy your mold and all your hard work.

You can see the natural pattern of the bone in the cross-cut section.  The flat side of the bone has been sanded flat, and halves placed on on top of the other, the “join” is smooth and the pieces sit evenly.  
 
The model you design will fit within the flat area of the bone, and should not extend past the married surfaces.
The cuttlebone is now ready to be used. 
DESIGN THE PENDANT (PIECE)

Next, with a piece of paper and a pencil sketch out your design keeping it with in the realm of size to fit your cuttlebone!  This very simple Cross pattern is easy to do; the lines are sharp and easily cut to the proper form.  Remember the more detailed or pointed your object is the harder it will be to cut.  Simple is best for this process.

This was drawn with a pencil and a ruler, and cut out of the sheet of paper.  I have traced it in black ink for a clearer photo.  This is small, about 1-1/2″ high x 1-1/4″ wide.
Set this aside as well, for now.
NOTE:  It is important to make sure your design, fits “inside” the cuttlebone, and does not stretch out beyond the edges of the bone.  The sketch should also fit the dimensions of the wax.  Here I have placed the design on top of the wax to trace or “scribe” the pattern in to the wax to be cut out.
The bottom of the cross is just a tad too long for the wax.  I will trim off the excess or trace around the paper template and stop at the bottom edge of the wax block.  I will also have to change the placement of the circles (these will be holes drilled into the surface of the wax)

After transferring your image to the wax use a Jeweler’s Saw and cut out your image from the wax.

After the shape has been cut out use a Wax File or small Flat File to true up the sides and edges of your design.

These instructions for the model will be repeated in Cuttlebone Casting PART II. Now that the cuttlebone has been prepared and you have a design, let’s make sure those tools and equipment are together.  Double check that Check List!

TOOL CHECK LIST
 
In no particular order:
 
Jeweler’s Wax – Green (aka: Modeling Wax)
I know it looks black, it isn’t, it is a dark green color.  Jeweler’s or Modeling Wax comes in a variety of colors and hardness.  This will work just fine.  Although it is a bit brittle so be careful and gentle when working with it.
Brass Rods
These rods are just shy of 3mm in circumference.  They will be used to create “VENT GATES” and then ground down for sculpting, shaping, carving and drilling tools.
 
Tin Alloy Soldering Material
This is 99.3% Tin, 0.7% Copper.  If the coil was unwound it would stretch to 5′ (Feet) in length.  The coil will be cut into pieces and melted during the final stage of the casting project.
 
3mm Simulated Garnet “Gemstones”
These are faceted simulated stones, I do not know what material they are made out of, but I would guess a heat resistant resign or plastic material, they are not glass.  One of these stones will be set or seated into the final piece.
 
Mini-Torch
This Micro-Torch or Mini Torch uses Butane gas (lighter fuel) and works well for melting or soldering things.
Jeweler’s Saw
This looks very much like a Hack or Coping Saw, Cheese Slicer maybe… This is a small hand-held tool, the blades are very fine and thin.  This will be used to cut your model out of the wax block.
 
Wednesday, PART II – Model and Mold Preparation. 
 
Thank you for stopping in and having a look.
 
The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant work week.

 

 

 

Unknown's avatar

Thursday Workbench Woes

 

Good Morning,
 
As I await the Blog Ring to begin again, I am left with empty space for posting.
 
Some of you are aware of the household incidents that have been plaguing me of late, leaks, floods, electrical wiring weirdness, wasp infestation…  In the midst of all that my poor workbench has become the catch-all for odds and ends bits and pieces.
 

I am usually a very organized craft-person, everything in its place, cubby-holes, bins, boxes, baskets, bags, nooks, crannies, shelves, drawers, the odd table corner even.  I am finding it most difficult to work under these conditions.

 
Destruction Productions presents – Alix’s Workbench, Portrait of Horror.
Yes, I used to sit in that chair, and work on that table, you can see some of the items I have discussed here including a color wheel, sandpaper, a set of craft knives, my mini-torch, light box, and various tools and other equipment.  
 
With the workbench in such a state, I have been delegated to the Dining table in the great room.
 
You guys are laughing now…
 
Since a good portion of my materials and supplies are small they require little space, or so one would think.  Right.  Due to the mentioned mishaps much of my shelf space has vanished, so I have managed to cram everything into the closet.  When I say I work out of my closet, I ain’t kidding.

The supply closet, whether you work in an office or at home, eventually you need someplace to put those things you use for work.  Cubby-holes, bins, boxes, baskets, bags, nooks, crannies, shelves, drawers and the file cabinet corners are full to the brim with beads, wire, string, clasps, buttons, clay, twine, charms, ribbon, just about every conceivable and imagined item can be found with in the depths of the Supply Closet…  Happy Hunting!

That’s all for today.  Now you have a little inside peak at the madness that is my method.
 
Thank you for stopping in and having a look.
 

The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant Thursday.

 

Unknown's avatar

Friday Fifteen Fun Links For Jewelers and Crafters

Happy Friday to all of you!
 
The weekend is here, and just in time for lazing on a Sunday afternoon is a list of fifteen (15) fun and informative links for jewelers and crafters.  Some link to easy projects, others to supply stores and there is a surprise or two in store for those that complete the list.
 
SUPPLIES: (Looking at these sites could get a girl into trouble!)
 
Jewelry Findings, Gemstones, Metals and Tools, I drool just thinking about it.
I like this supplier and order many of my beads from them.  Wide selection, nice variety, great customer service, and “Everything is Assortable” for discount prices on all orders!  Catalog is also available.  Express Ordering, Tips, Contests.  Check them out!
Just wow.  Lapidary Equipment, Jewelers tools and more.  A bit pricy on things, but really nice equipment.
Again a bit pricy, but well worth the peruse for the selection of item alone.  With an A to Z list and pdf / interactive flip through catalogs, there is a lot to look at and desire.
Beautiful Gemstones at affordable pries.  Wonderful selection and variety to choose from.
SELL OR BUY SITES
 
Many of you are aware of these, some of you may not be, below are a couple of links to some neat sites, where you can sell your items, or buy those wonderful handmade goodies!
 
This site is for sellers of handmade and vintage items.  You can find, Fine Art, Photopraphy, Arts and Crafts, and of course jewelery.  If you haven’t check it out give a look see.  Accounts are free.  Just be sure to set up the appropriate account for you, either as a Buyer or a Seller.
This site is strictly for handmade items.  Jewelry is the bulk of the site, but look around and you can find cool knits, great toys for the kids, handmade books and a lot of other neat stuff.
Or you can check out:
Recently purchased by the good folks of Handmade Artsist (above) this neat site featuring more handmade items to look at and choose from.
DIY PROJECTS
 
Looking for a diversion on a sunny day?  Maybe you’d like to try your hand at one of these.
 
Cute, and super simple.  You can make one in an afternoon.
So simple a Caveman could do it!
They ain’t kidding! Now it really is OK to play with your food!
Super simple fun project for any age.  More knot tying.  These instructions will teach you to make this pattern.
Want to try your hand at weaving Chainmaille?  This site lists free downloadable pdf instructions.
Surprise Link.  Oh go on, click it!  You know you want to…
This link will take you to a blog that gives clear and concise instructions on making these very pretty decorations.
Thank you for stopping and having a look and hurray, you made it to the end of the blog!  Hope that you found something to inspire or interest you!
 

The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant weekend.

Unknown's avatar

Good Morning,

Once again. I would like to think that I am saying this as gently as possible.  Just so you all know, when you look at my blog, and then do searches for things like “How Many Jump Rings Are Required For A Dragon’s Back Bracelet”, I can see that!  My blog tells on you!  If you have questions, comments or other ideas, please feel free to contact me via any of the links, e-mails or site addresses.  In most cases I am happy to share.

I am absolutely thrilled that my jewelry is appealing enough for some one to wish to copy it. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, in this case however; no, it is not.

These are my designs, that come out of my head and made with my hands. Although  Chain Maille and it’s patterns / weaves may be “public domain”, my designs are not, they are mine, they belong to me, and are copyrighted the minute I post them. I am a real, licensed, tax-paying, permit holding business entity! If you would like to make a bracelet, I am more than willing to offer instructions and assistance, pdf.s or what have you.

Please, don’t steal my or an other artist’s designs, not only is it tacky, it is unprofessional, unethical, and you will be caught!

Thank you,

Alix Browning

The Alchemist

The Alchemists Vessel

Owner / Designer / Sole Proprietor