Cuttlebone Casting Part II – Model and Mold Preparation

Good Morning,

 

Wednesday’s are devoted to what’s happening in the studio here at The Alchemists Vessel, and this morning is Part II of the three part series, Cuttlebone Casting.

 

Monday we discussed materials and the very basics of beginning to model and mold the pendant.  Today we are going to continue the project with making the model and creating the mold itself.

 

If you would like to follow along, I recommend a quick review of Monday’s post, Cuttlebone Casting Part I – Materials and Model Making.

TOOLS:
Pencil

Paper

Pin or Sharp Pointy Object

Modeling (Jeweler’s) Wax
Flat File

Jeweler’s Saw

Lighter Fluid

Soft Cloth

Brass Rods

Unsharpened Pencil

Prepared Cuttlebone halves

Last time the design of the piece was decided upon, sketched and cut out.  The sample project shown throughout the instruction will be  simple Cross shape.

This is about 1-1/2″ tall x 1-1/4″ wide.  Sketched in pencil (then traced with ink for a clearer photo), cut out of the paper, this will be the Paper Template from which to trace or “scribe” the design on to the wax block.

PREPARE THE MODEL

Cut out and place your Paper Template on top of the modeling wax and with a pin or other sharp object draw or “scribe” your design into the wax.  Trace the template.  Below is a T-pin, which I use to scribe the design in to the wax.

Note: You can see that the template is a little too long for the wax, you may adjust your design to fit with in the wax area before your trace the design.

Next with a Jeweler’s Saw and a Spiral saw blade (these cut modeling wax best, and straight blades work just fine, too) cut out your model.

Here is the beginning of the wax model.  Using a straight saw blade the block has been cut along the scribed lines in the wax.  Once completely cut out the model will be ready for final preparations.

Once your model is cut out, use a wax file to smooth and true the edges up, keeping them straight and even.  They make specific files for wax, if one is not available a flat jewelers / craft file will work as well.

Using a tiny bit of lighter fluid and a soft cloth, smooth out the surface, corners, and sides of the model.  This will remove any imperfections, nicks and scratches, and smooth the surface for a better impression.  Remember every imperfection will transfer to the finished product.  Be careful, over working the wax will distort or destroy any detail you may have carved into the model.

I have drilled tiny pilot holes in my design, the center hole will house the gemstone, and the others are to keep the design consistent.

NOTE:  I failed to take a picture prior to completing the next steps.  What you see here, is the final model, after it has been pressed into the cuttlebone halves.  The white material is dust from the bone.   Also, I dropped it, as I mentioned the wax is very brittle and I managed to break the arm of the Cross on one side.  However this happened after creating the mold impression!

Whew!  Almost there!

MAKE THAT MOLD

Now the fun starts!  Using one side of your cuttlebone, press your model into the flat surface of the bone.  The bone is soft, use gentle even pressure.  Next place the other half of the cuttlebone on top of the wax model and other half of the bone-mold and press the two sides together.  GENTLY!  If you press too hard the cuttlebone will break and another one will have to be prepared before continuing.  The wax model is now embedded in the cuttlebone.  It does take some pressure, and you can hear the model sinking into the surface of the cuttlebone.  The halves do need to touch, but press the wax into them enough for a well-defined impression.

With a pencil, mark several places on the outside of the bone so you can align the halves later.  This is important, the sides of the mold must match up for the inside to cast properly.

Remove the model.  The impression will be left behind.  This model may be used again to make another mold.

 

Here you can see the impression the wax model has made in the bone, along with the natural striated patterns of the bone itself, they are distorted by the the impression of the cross.  (The other side of the cuttlebone looks just like this).

If desired, very, very carefully sand the impression for better definition.  Do not overwork the area or you can distort the impression.

ADD SPRUE CHANNELS AND VENT GATES

Choosing one side of the mold, lay it flat and using the end of a pencil (not sharpened) create a SPRUE CHANNEL by gently pressing the pencil into the bone, just above and at the edge of the impression.  What’s a sprue channel?  It is a channel that allows the material you’re pouring to enter the mold for casting.  Make sure that this just touches the edge or of your model impression, but not so much to distort your design.  (Simon didn’t say to remove the pencil).

Next using brass rods or something with a smaller diameter than the pencil create VENT GATES.  What’s a vent gate?  It is a channel that will allow air to escape the mold during the casting process.  Just like you did with the pencil, using two (2) Brass rods (or tool) lay them just at the end and edge of the arms of the Cross.  These should also just touch the edge of the impression.  With the pencil and then the rods in place, place the second half of your mold over the pencil and rods and press down, keeping in mind to align the pencil marks on the outside of the cuttlebone.  The channels must be created in both sides of the mold.  Take the halves apart, remove the pencil and rods.

Are you still with me?  Still want to make a piece of jewelry?   Alrighty then!  Here we go!

Now match up the halves with the lines you made on the outside.  Find the Sprue Channel. Very carefully mark the top of the mold (both sides), on either side of the Sprue Channel.  This is where you will cut the SPRUE HOLE.  What’s a sprue hole?  It is a larger opening in the mold, which allows you to pour material into the Sprue Channel and into the mold.  This makes it easier to pour the material from whatever you have melted your material in, into the mold itself.  If you try to aim for the Sprue Channel you will wind up with material on the outside of the mold and possibly severe burns.  Molten Metal is HOT HOT HOT!  This project only gets up to about 400 degrees, but that can still do some serious damage!  Be careful.

Here you can see the Vent Gates, Sprue Hole, Sprue Channel, and the pencil marks I made on the outside of the bone to align the pieces.

Now align the Mold again.  Using Mold Wire, Rubber bands, or other type of binding (I do not recommend Duct Tape or other adhesive strips or bindings), match up the halves and secure (close) the mold.

The photo above is the closed mold, with Rubber band binding.

You just made a mold.  COOL!

WHEW!

Set the mold aside, some place safe and dry.

The preparations are now done and the mold is ready to begin casting the piece.

Take a break, have a little sit down and enjoy some tea, coffee, a beverage, or snack of your choice!  You’ve earned it!

Next time.  Part III – Casting the piece. 

Thank you for stopping by and having a look.

The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant Wednesday.

Cuttlebone Casting Part I – Materials and Model Making

 

Good Morning,

 

Monday is here bright, and still smoky from all the fires in the surrounding states.

 

Today and throughout the next couple of  days and weeks we will take a look at a method of casting a piece of jewelry from easily obtained materials.  No special equipment is required for this project, although you will need a heat source that can reach temperatures of up to and over 400-degrees.

The materials are easily obtained and there is quite a bit of preparation required.  Part I includes materials, and preparing the mold for the model.  We will also discuss designing and making the model briefly, and it will be covered in full in Part II.  I emphasize DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!  I did, but that doesn’t mean you should!

Let’s begin.

For this project the following materials and tools are required:

A Cuttlebone

Jeweler’s Saw

Jeweler’s Modeling Wax (Green)

Mini-Torch (Butane)

Stainless Steel Tablespoon (Soup Spoon)

Gloves (Leather workman’s gloves)

Pencil

Brass Rods

320 to 600 Grit Sandpaper

File (Small Rasp / Crafting File)

Tin Soldering Material (Lead-Free Tin Alloy) 4 tubes (20 feet)

Paper

Pin

Small Vice Grip / Prop (Optional, but really should find something)

3mm Simulated Garnet Faceted “gemstone”. (Optional)

Rubber bands  or Molding Wire
Gloves or Leather Shoe Strings (Leather workman’s glove is best)
Safety Glasses or Goggles
Painter’s Mask  (Respirator – Paper Surgical Mask)

Lighter Fluid

Soft Cloth or Paper towel.

This is a cuttlebone.  It comes from a cuttlefish, very much like a squid or octopus.  You can find these at your local Pet Stores and stores that carry pet supplies.  They are inexpensive, and a little difficult to work with as they are very brittle and break very easily.  (These provide essential nutrients for your feathered pal!)  They do come in different sizes and the bigger the better.

Cuttlebones are naturally heat resistant.  This means that they can withstand high heat without distorting in shape, and make wonderful molds for just that reason.  They are also a completely natural tool with no added chemicals and won’t harm the environment.  Eco-friendly jewelry creation, that’s a plus!

PREPARE THE CUTTLEBONE:

First, remove the metal bar that allows you to attach it to a cage.  Using a jewelers saw cut the cuttlebone in half. 

 

 

Using 320 to 600 grit Sandpaper, sand the flat sides of the halves as smooth as possible.  Remember any imperfection will transfer to the final piece.  Since there are natural patterns in the bone itself, it is almost impossible to get a perfectly smooth surface.  This is a great process for rustic or primitive-look pieces that you wish to create.  When sanding it is a good idea to do so on a piece of paper or over an area that can be cleaned easily.  The bone dust is very fine and will get into everything.  You may wish to wear a painters mask when sanding the cuttlebone halves.

These are very small and get smaller with sawing and sanding.  Choose two sides that you have sanded and match them up, by laying one half on top of the other. This looks pretty good.  Set these aside someplace safe.  Do not drop them, or you will have to begin again.  These are very brittle and break easily.  Gentle pressure is all that is required.  Remember you’re making jewelry not mining for ore!  Death Grips will damage and in some cases destroy your mold and all your hard work.

You can see the natural pattern of the bone in the cross-cut section.  The flat side of the bone has been sanded flat, and halves placed on on top of the other, the “join” is smooth and the pieces sit evenly.  

 

The model you design will fit within the flat area of the bone, and should not extend past the married surfaces.

The cuttlebone is now ready to be used. 

DESIGN THE PENDANT (PIECE)

Next, with a piece of paper and a pencil sketch out your design keeping it with in the realm of size to fit your cuttlebone!  This very simple Cross pattern is easy to do; the lines are sharp and easily cut to the proper form.  Remember the more detailed or pointed your object is the harder it will be to cut.  Simple is best for this process.

This was drawn with a pencil and a ruler, and cut out of the sheet of paper.  I have traced it in black ink for a clearer photo.  This is small, about 1-1/2″ high x 1-1/4″ wide.

Set this aside as well, for now.

NOTE:  It is important to make sure your design, fits “inside” the cuttlebone, and does not stretch out beyond the edges of the bone.  The sketch should also fit the dimensions of the wax.  Here I have placed the design on top of the wax to trace or “scribe” the pattern in to the wax to be cut out.

The bottom of the cross is just a tad too long for the wax.  I will trim off the excess or trace around the paper template and stop at the bottom edge of the wax block.  I will also have to change the placement of the circles (these will be holes drilled into the surface of the wax)

After transferring your image to the wax use a Jeweler’s Saw and cut out your image from the wax.

After the shape has been cut out use a Wax File or small Flat File to true up the sides and edges of your design.

These instructions for the model will be repeated in Cuttlebone Casting PART II. Now that the cuttlebone has been prepared and you have a design, let’s make sure those tools and equipment are together.  Double check that Check List!

TOOL CHECK LIST

 

In no particular order:

 

Jeweler’s Wax – Green (aka: Modeling Wax)

 

I know it looks black, it isn’t, it is a dark green color.  Jeweler’s or Modeling Wax comes in a variety of colors and hardness.  This will work just fine.  Although it is a bit brittle so be careful and gentle when working with it.

Brass Rods

These rods are just shy of 3mm in circumference.  They will be used to create “VENT GATES” and then ground down for sculpting, shaping, carving and drilling tools.

 

Tin Alloy Soldering Material

This is 99.3% Tin, 0.7% Copper.  If the coil was unwound it would stretch to 5′ (Feet) in length.  The coil will be cut into pieces and melted during the final stage of the casting project.

 

3mm Simulated Garnet “Gemstones”

These are faceted simulated stones, I do not know what material they are made out of, but I would guess a heat resistant resign or plastic material, they are not glass.  One of these stones will be set or seated into the final piece.

 

Mini-Torch

 

This Micro-Torch or Mini Torch uses Butane gas (lighter fuel) and works well for melting or soldering things.

Jeweler’s Saw

This looks very much like a Hack or Coping Saw, Cheese Slicer maybe… This is a small hand-held tool, the blades are very fine and thin.  This will be used to cut your model out of the wax block.

 

Wednesday, PART II – Model and Mold Preparation. 

 

Thank you for stopping in and having a look.

 

The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant work week.

 

 

 

Thursday Workbench Woes

 

Good Morning,

 

As I await the Blog Ring to begin again, I am left with empty space for posting.

 

Some of you are aware of the household incidents that have been plaguing me of late, leaks, floods, electrical wiring weirdness, wasp infestation…  In the midst of all that my poor workbench has become the catch-all for odds and ends bits and pieces.

 

I am usually a very organized craft-person, everything in its place, cubby-holes, bins, boxes, baskets, bags, nooks, crannies, shelves, drawers, the odd table corner even.  I am finding it most difficult to work under these conditions.

 

Destruction Productions presents – Alix’s Workbench, Portrait of Horror.

Yes, I used to sit in that chair, and work on that table, you can see some of the items I have discussed here including a color wheel, sandpaper, a set of craft knives, my mini-torch, light box, and various tools and other equipment.  

 

With the workbench in such a state, I have been delegated to the Dining table in the great room.

 

You guys are laughing now…

 

Since a good portion of my materials and supplies are small they require little space, or so one would think.  Right.  Due to the mentioned mishaps much of my shelf space has vanished, so I have managed to cram everything into the closet.  When I say I work out of my closet, I ain’t kidding.

The supply closet, whether you work in an office or at home, eventually you need someplace to put those things you use for work.  Cubby-holes, bins, boxes, baskets, bags, nooks, crannies, shelves, drawers and the file cabinet corners are full to the brim with beads, wire, string, clasps, buttons, clay, twine, charms, ribbon, just about every conceivable and imagined item can be found with in the depths of the Supply Closet…  Happy Hunting!

That’s all for today.  Now you have a little inside peak at the madness that is my method.

 

Thank you for stopping in and having a look.

 

The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant Thursday.

 

In My Studio – New Beads

 

Happy Wednesday.

 

I do like the middle of the week.

 

Sunday afternoon was spent with my friend, Sarah, we swapped beads, chatted and had a nice afternoon.

 

I thought I would share some of what I got in the swap.

Clockwise: Tiger Eye, Pyrite (donuts), Silver Findings (donuts), I think that is Serpentine (oval), Shell (donuts), Marble (triangles), Carnelian, Agate, and Turquoise (diamond shape).  

Why do I feel like I just described a bowl of cereal?

Many of the pieces above have already been used to craft and create earrings, among other things, and will be listed in the shop shortly.

 

Most of what the shop has to offer is One Of A Kind, and a good deal of time is spent in the design process.  Not necessarily just stringing beads or linking jump rings, but things like bead size, shape, color, texture and even drill-style (top, side, vertical, half) are taken into account when putting together a piece of jewelry.

I try not to mass produce items, there may be a style that will be repeated, and as much joy as I get from making the piece I would like the customer to experience the joy of wearing something unique and different.

 

Also, preparation for the August tutorial is going on.  Interested in learning the basics of Chainmaille?  The lesson will be on Dragon Chain (aka Double Chain) so get those pliers and jump rings ready!  Yes, that’s all you need.  If the piece I cast is returned there will be look at the process of cuttle bone casting.

 

Thank you for reading.

 

The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a warm and pleasant Wednesday.

 

New Items In The Shop

 

Monday is here, and we’re all ready to take on this week’s challenges, yes?

I had a very  pleasant if not eventful weekend.  After accidentally locking my poor wee beast, Nora, the cat, in the Office / Studio closet for a couple of hours, I opened the door to find my supplies, boxes of beads, ribbons, wire, leather cording, et al, strewn across the carpeted floor of the tiny hole I call a supply closet.  Five hours later I think I have managed to find and retrieve the majority of the bits and pieces.  I apologize to my animal-friend for such unintentional harsh treatment, but you could have just meowed to be let out!

 

Sunday afternoon was spent trading / swapping beads and other goodies with a friend, so I now have new supplies to play with as well, be on the look out for those!

 

New items in the shop include watches and necklaces this week.

12 Hour Blues

Description:  7-1/2″ total length, this watch wears like a bracelet or bangle.  The face is stainless steel, the strap is Nickel wire, hand spun, cut into jump rings, and linked in the Full Persian Chainmaille weave, accented with beautiful Sapphire blue Czech glass silver-lined beads.  The watch comes with a battery, the plastic safety tab is in place and intact.  Currently available in three styles, Square, Oval, and Round Watch Faces in the bead color of your choice.  The “Clever Clasp” is magnetic, two ends connect and are locked into place with a screw down barrell for a secure fit.

 

Custom Order:

 

It is an absolute pleasure when someone asks me to create something special for them.  The necklace below was created as a gift upon request.  The rings are Silver Plated, and woven in the Half-Persian 4-in-1 Chainmaille pattern.  Smaller in scale than the bracelets this is sleek and sinuous, but substantial enough to make feminine statement.  At 18″ long this is a bit weighty, but not so heavy as to be uncomfortable.  Available in Silver Plated, Nickle, Jeweler‘s Bronze (aka Merlin’s Gold),  Antiqued Copper or Bronze, and Gold Tone rings.

Silver Lining

 

Description:  18″ total length. This sinuous and supple necklace is slinky, sensual, sleek and positively serpentine and it slides smoothy across the skin. Would look smashing with that little black dress or you can dress up that casual outfit with this simple but stunning chain.

Silver Plated metal wire is hand spun, cut and the linked jump rings are scaled down in size to create this feminine length of 4-in-1 Half Persian chainmaille weave pattern for a necklace. Finished with a Lobster Claw Clasp.

Available in a variety of metal choices, including Nickel, Sterling Silver Plate, Antiqued Bronze or Copper, and Gold Tone jewelry wires, upon request. Sizable and customizable!

 

NOTE:  Gunmetal Wire will no longer be offered.  Although it is pretty cool, and shiny, it has come to my attention that it is not a proper material for jewelry.  It does not stand up to wear, the color / coating will wear off and the wire apparently loses its shape.  Not good!  If you have purchased a Gunmetal Wire piece please contact me for details on replacement.

 

Thank you for stopping by and having a read.

 

The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant work week.

 

In My Studio – Earring Tutorial

 

Happy Wednesday!Here we are in my studio, that must mean it’s time for a project.  Wonder what I do at the workbench?   Wonder no more, below is  Earrings 101 a tutorial video. 

 

As promised, I have finally managed to create and upload a video on crafting a pair of very simple dangle earrings.  You can definitely try this at home!  The video covers, materials and how to’s for finishing and attaching the parts and pieces to make and  complete a pair of earrings.

 

If you would like to participate along with the video or perhaps make a pair afterwards you will need the supplies listed.  Expensive tools and supplies are not required, you can find the wire cutters and other things at your local Walmart for about $5.00 each, I bet most you have pliers at home, those will work just fine.  Beads can be any material and color you like, you can also find the Headpins and things at a local craft store for around $2.00.

 

Tools:

1 pair of Flat or Chain Nose Pliers

1 pair of Round Nose Pliers

1 pair of Wire Cutters

 

Supplies:

2 Head Pins

2 Fish Hook Style Ear Wires

2 4mm Jump Rings (optional)

Beads of your choice (any color, size, shape to your liking).

If you are experiencing problems watching the video on the blog you can also try clicking the links to your right or following them from the links below,

Earrings 101 on The Alchemists Vessel (Official Website)

Earrings 101 on Youtube

Earrings 101 on Daily Motion

*Earrings 101 on Facebook

 

*NOTE:  This link will take you to The Alchemists Vessel Fan / Business Page on Facebook.

There is no pdf or written instruction, if I have requests for this I will write one out for downloading later.

I hope you enjoyed this brief tutorial on creating a simple pair of earrings.

Thank you for stopping by and watching.

The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant Wednesday.

 

Featured Artist: Crochet Hooked’s, Cari Baker

 

Good Morning.

 

Today, as usual on Thursday’s is a featured artist, from Handmadeartists.com Cari Baker of Crochet Hooked.

 

Cari’s shop – Crochet Hooked

What’s a Braidlet?

Cari says:

I design a wire crochet braided bracelet known as ‘Braidlets®.’ 

Using the finest Swarovski crystals and pearls. Anything in my 

shop can be custom made, within 24 hours, at no extra charge. 

Because ‘A Little Bling Goes Along way!‘ 

 

Let’s take a look.

 

Harmonious Swarovski Crystal Bracelet

This stylish bracelet features three strands of Swarovski crystals, which are braided together forming a durable, lightweight, and comfortable handmade bracelet. A terrific gift for Bridesmaids, as they will cherish the bracelet for years to comes and it is a reminder of the fun had by all at your wedding.

• Size:  7” long x 3/8” wide
• Swarovski Crystals: 4mm Bicone Crystal Moonlight, Jonquil, and Silk
• Clasp: Silver filled magnetic

There are also these simple and pretty earring, in a rainbow of colors.

Primary Color Simple Swarovski Pierced Earrings, Your Choice of Two Colors 

These simple earrings are made using 3, 4mm bicone Swarovski Crystals and antique brass wire. The total length is about 1⅜inch, the dangle is about ¾ inch. Please choose from the following:

Yellow: Sun Swarovski

Green: Emerald Swarovski

Red: Light Siam Swarovski

Blue: Sapphire Swarovski

Purple: Amethyst Swarovski

Orange: Sunflower Swarovski

Please choose 2 colors from the 6 colors I have listed above. When you are purchasing the earrings, don’t forget to specify color choices.  If you forget, no problem, I will send you an email requesting your colors. Custom orders are always welcome.

Want to learn how to make those fabulous and fun Braidlets?  Cari has been kind enough to provide a downloadable pdf tutorial. 

Easy Wire Crochet Bracelet Pattern PDF Download 

A tutorial to learn how to make my Multi colored, Cuff style and Swarovski Crystal Wire Crochet Bracelets, with this easy to follow PDF Pattern.

**Beginning crochet, braiding, and beginning jewelry knowledge is helpful for this pattern.**

Materials needed:
Artistic Wire
A toggle clasp
6/0 Seed beads

Tools needed:
Needle Nosed pliers
Flat-nosed pliers
Wire cutters
0 (3.25 mm) US steel Hook

Required:
A cup of coffee or water
And a smile… ;o)

I wrote this pattern with you in mind… (I used to teach a beginning crochet class) with clear colored photos, showing you how to crochet with wire and beads. Along with easy to follow step-by-step instructions, as if I were sitting right beside you. ;o).

From the pattern above you can make three (3) different styles of braidlet! 

 

What Cari says about herself:

 

My name is Cari and I design a Beaded Wire Crochet Braided Bracelet, I have branded Braidlets®. I taught myself to crochet about 11 years ago. And over the years, I have made baby items, hats, lapel pins, scarfs, and jewelry.
In 2005, while working as a Custom Picture Framer for a local arts and crafts store, I started teaching a beginning crochet class. I enjoyed sharing my enthusiasm about the art of crochet, with my students.
It was during this time, I discovered crocheting with wire and beads. I was (and still am) awestruck by the simplicity of creating jewelry, by crocheting beads to wire.
~ ~ * ~ ~ * ~ ~ * ~ ~ * ~ ~ * ~ ~ *
Thank you for taking the time to read my profile. I appreciate your visit and until next time, have a wonderful day. Cari

Braidlets® / Copyright © 2008-12 All rights reserved.

 

 

Thank you for stopping in and taking a moment to read about Cari and her wonderful and clever jewelry.

 

The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant rest of the week.

 

 

In My Studio – Sterling Silver Ring

Happy Thursday,

It’s Studio time again, but when isn’t it around here.

Today I thought I would show a project that I completed as part of the classes I am taking to upgrade and refresh my skills.  It has been a long time since I soldered anything.  For the past couple if days I have been annealing metal and playing with fire.

I had not intended on sharing this particular project, as it was meant as a practice piece, so I did not take progress pictures.  I should probably do that.  Any way, I thought to it would be good to show what is good, and what is not so good about the ring.  It will not be put up for sale, as I do not feel good about listing this anywhere, but it will work as example for now.

Twisted Celtic Knot Style Sterling Silver Ring

Original Design by The Alchemists Vessel

This ring is made of Sterling Silver sizing stock, I think it was meant as a bezel strip, but I liked it and it felt like it would be easy to work with, I believe it was 18 gauge stock.

Rings are made using sheets or strips of metal.  The metal is cut, shaped, hammered, heated, and repeat around the mandrel until you have a circle.  The joint or seam where the ends meet is then soldered.  The metal is cleaned and polished.  Viola!  You have a ring.

Due to heating, and pickling during the process of forming the ring, sometimes not all the fire scale or other agents that are hard to get off the ring will be removed entirely.  In the case of the twisted-braid like design, some areas are difficult to reach, as seen here.  More polishing and / or a Q-Tip is required.

Soldering a ring is not easy, I do not know what I was thinking when I soldered the inside of the ring, over flow spills into the twist pattern of the stock, in an effort to make it smooth, I over polished and wore some the unaffected stock flat.  Oops!  This needs another cleaning as well.  I see spots!

The last photo shows the back of the ring where it has been joined, this is the toughest part about soldering, guessing the correct amount of solder needed to seal the seam.  I used a paste type solder instead of wire type solder.  That was a mistake, as working with the unfamiliar paste type lead to “bad” jewelry finishing.  The problems I encountered with the stock were due to my choice of design.  The rounded edge does not meet flush, and therefore does not create a good joint for the solder to fill.  The stock itself is twisted around itself, making two pieces into one, this also does not work well, as some of the solder has pitted and / or pooled in the spaces of the stock.  Pitting, the holes that you see, can come from over heating the metal, not using enough flux, or simply too much solder, as was the case here I think.  It is possible in my attempt to smooth out the join while polishing that I over polished the spot causing a hole to form in the solder itself.

The only way to correct this is to saw the ring apart, removing the soldered area and sizing the ring smaller, re-soldering the joint (seam) and trying not to make another mess in the process.  This is why they call it practice, and it most definitely makes perfect, in this situation anyway.

Thank you for stopping by and having a read.  In hope this was informative or at least interesting.

The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant Thursday.

What’s New In The Shop – Metal Monday

Good Morning,

I hope all had a wonderful weekend, I certainly did, it was also my birthday!

Although there are no new items in the shop at the moment, there is something new that I am working on.  It’s a secret, but a little progress shot or two never hurt.


Designed using two different patterns.  Below you see simple, short lengths of chain woven from Nickel jump rings in a European 4 -in -1 and a variation.  These weave are also available for jewelry.

Next, a little progress,  Two lengths of chain are being joined or “married” together.  Several more individual lengths will be created and added to this.

Top Down View

Side View: This pattern lies flat and creates a nice pattern that has lot of movement and light play, although the jump rings may turn, the lengths of chain are supple with little rigidity to allow for “give”, and wear and tear when the piece is used.

Any one want to hazard a guess as to what it might be?  No?  How about if I said there are 310 (give or take) 3mm I.D.  jump rings in these short lengths?  No?  How about a hint?  Something may be put it in.

Thank you for stopping by.  The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a wonderful week.

Tools In My Studio

Happy Wednesday!  

Here we are in the middle of the week!  Where does the time go?

I thought it might be fun to take a look at some of the tools and other materials I use to make jewelry.

This is my Micro Torch, I use it for soldering, firing PMC (Precious Metal Clay) annealing, and any number of other things that require me to heat things.

This is my Jeweler’s Saw.  I use it to cut wire (for jump rings), sheet metal and sizing stock.  Yes, it is exactly like a hacksaw, except the blades are much finer and thinner, and the saw itself is much smaller and lighter weight than a Construction Tool.

These are the tools I use in the creation of Chainmaille, two pairs of pliers, and three mandrels. Of course I have more, these are all that would fit on the background area.  Mandrels are used to wrap the wire to create a coil, from which jump rings are cut.  Pliers are used to open and close the jump rings during the linking process.

Hammers and Anvil.  Yes, it is very cathartic when designing to bring that hammer down on the little piece of wire.  Striking area is very tiny, so precision is a must, and a great deal of attention paid to the piece you are working on.  One wrong blow with the head, and the piece can break, bend, or be ruined.

Stainless Steel Head

Stainless Steel Anvil

Rubber Mallet

4 oz. Brass Claw Hammer (there are screwdrivers in the handle!)

Here is a selection of wire that I use.  Brand new stock that has not been opened as of yet.  From Left to Right: 20 gauge Copper, Nickle, and Jeweler’s Bronze (aka “Merlin’s Gold”), and the last roll is 18 gauge copper wire.

Here is a coil of Sterling Silver Plated Copper Jewelry wire, I have used up the last of the Silver Plated wire, making the last choker I created.  The wire is straightened, wrapped around a mandrel, the coil is removed from the mandrel and cut using the Jeweler’s Saw for a flush cut or it is “Pinch Cut” using wire cutters.

I offer both Hand-forged and Manufactured or machine made clasps, but that is the only thing you will find besides beads and gemstones (I don’t have the equipment to do that at home) that are not hand-crafted by my self.  That includes head pins, jump rings and chain.

I suppose it would have been easier to just take a photo of the Bench, but that is covered with materials and stuff that needs to be cleaned up and gone through, I currently use the dining table or head out the garage for creation these days.  Evetually I’ll get back to the actual Bench and then I can take a photo.

You can always check out Youtube or Dailymotion.  Currently there are three very short tutorial videos, on opening and closing, measuring the Interior Diameter and winding / cutting your own jump rings.

Thank you for stopping by and having a look.  The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant day!