Chainmaille Tutorial Key Chain Kit on Handmade Artists’ Shop.
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Jewelry Sets, Tutorial Kits and Wholesale at The Alchemists Vessel
Good Morning,
Happy Friday to one and all, the weekend is almost here and I for one could use a little down time, not like that is going to happen, but I can give it a go. Today is Shameless Self Promotion Day on the blog, but I do that a lot any way. That’s what the blog for, besides showing off neat items and cool artists, some of whom are personal friends, and others just because their work amazes me.
What’s happening at The Alchemists Vessel? Let’s find out.
We are currently offering a variety of sets of jewelry, bracelets, earrings, and combination sets, soon to be listed. First up is this fun set of four (4) Chainmaille Bracelets, all four are a generous 8-1/4″ to 8-1/2″ in length, with a magnetic clasp and enameled aluminum jump rings. Available in Gunmetal tone or Silver-plated outer rings, with more accent colors on the way.
Available now at Raven’s Nook
These fabulous bracelets come in a set of four (4). They are dark, dreamy, striking, yet subtle, just right to match your mood, attire or lipstick. A collection of pretty ribbons for the wrist, these are an excellent choice for the tailored grey Professional suit, a sleek and sensuous bauble for Date Night, a surprise under the black lights at the club, or a cool element to go with your favorite pair of jeans and t-shirt on that weekend get away. Terrific for Rocker, Biker, Goth, and Metal fashions, a superior accessory for velvet or leather. Would make a unique ensemble for Film, Stage or Event attire or costuming. The mystery, how do the rings just float there like that?
Each bracelet measures 8-1/4″ to 8-1/2″ long, including clasp. Gunmetal tone (over copper) and enameled aluminum jump rings in Teal, Purple, Olive Green, and Red, are woven in the Inverted Round Maille pattern and finished with a strong magnetic clasp that holds well during everyday activities and movements.
Arrives boxed, ready for gift giving.
This item is not customizable.
Items are 20% Off the individual sale price.
Free Shipping this item.
Also available in silver-plated outer rings.
Ask us about Wholesale and multi-item order discounts.
*Sold individually as well.
We are always happy to take custom requests. Like what you see, but don’t see what you like? Drop us a line and let us design and create something especially for you. We have a wide selection of in-stock materials to choose from. Consultations, questions and quotes for custom orders are always free.
Coming Soon:
Want to try your hand at making Chainmaille? Don’t want to spend all that money on a book and supplies? If you have a couple of pairs of pliers and Adobe Reader, you too can try your hand at these fun and beautiful projects.
As part of a promotional campaign for In Chains, The Alchemists Vessel will be offering Instructions and Kits for Stand-Alone-Projects from Key Chains to Jewelry, and more, if it can be managed.
Kits will include Printed Instructions and enough material to make two (2) of the Weave Project you choose, plus extra rings just in case you make a mistake. That’s one for you and one to give away to your best friend, co-worker, or child.
Look for these project listings next month!
Wholesale Orders? Yes we do.
Everything you see in the shop is available for Wholesale Order. We ask that all Wholesale Orders equal $200.00 or more. Discount is taken at time of completed transaction and can be as much as 30% off the listed retail price of your entire order. We negotiate as well!
We also provide bulk or multi-item discounts for teams, groups, clubs, organizations, wedding parties, events and are willing to work with other designers to fulfill your jewelry or costume piece needs.
Friendly, knowledgeable, over ten years experience and a Certified Jewelry Design and Repair Technician, you can’t go wrong with merchandise from The Alchemists Vessel.
We guarantee our work.
We would also like to mention at this time that the official Alchemists Vessel website will be undergoing some changes and under construction once again. We appreciate your patience as we attempt to provide the finest quality goods and services via our website. The site is still accessible and orders, e-mails and other items of interest will still be available while the changes are being made.
Thank you for stopping in and having a look.
The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant day.
How To – Create A Movie Using Picasa 3 Tutorial
Good Morning,
Last month there was a contest on the Handmade Artists Forum, aimed at making a Movie or a Video showcasing the site we all love and with which we hold buyer or shop accounts.
Because my iMac is not quite vintage but it is outdated, and I was, as were many others for various reasons, unable to compete in the contest. My problem was simply a technical issue. However; in hope that they may try the contest again, it might be helpful for those that don’t have Movie Maker (Windows) or just don’t like their iMovie program, they might want to try using Picasa. Picasa is a free photo editing program on the web, if you have a blogger blog or a Google account of any kind you probably already have Picasa.
My version is Picasa 3 for Mac OSXs. I am guessing that the program works more or less the same on either a MS or Apple based machine.
I should mention that Picasa is fairly limited to movie making. Basically it is drag and drop photos to a new folder, click a button, let the program do it’s thing, add Title Cards (Slides) and add music. A word of *caution about adding music. Facebook WILL delete your video if you attempt to upload it to your page if you use an audio or music file.
How To Make a Movie using Picasa 3
1. If you do not have Picasa you may click the link above to down load it. It is free.
2. Open your Picasa program on your desk top. You do not have to be logged into the web.
3. Click the + File Button at the top of the box.
Follow the Prompts in the Dialog Box
1. Enter a Name for your video
2. Change the date or leave it as is.
3. Choose to include music, click the box, if not leave blank.*
4. Place: I suggest using your business name.
5. Description: Anything you like.
6. Click OK.
Your new folder will appear at the top of the program screen and will be empty.
Select the photos you would like to include in your movie. Picasa should have all of your photos collected for you. Choose from an existing file or upload fresh pictures if you like.
From a File:
1. Click on the photo you would like to add to the movie folder (file).
2. Right Click on the picture to bring up the menu.
3. Highlight Add to Album (as above).
4. A selection of available folders will appear, select the one you created for your movie.
NOTE: The picture will be copied to the folder (file) you created for your movie and still remain in its original folder (file) as well.
5. Continue to Add photos to your Album until you are satisfied. *You may edit and add more pictures later.
All done? OK.
Your folder will look something like this.
From the Menu at the top of the screen, click “Create Movie Presentation”. It is the third button from the left.
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| Create Movie Presentation Button |
You will be whisked off to a screen that looks something like this.
You are in the Movie Maker Tab
The First Tab in this window is Movie
This first box is where you may choose your options for music (sync with photos).
Transition Style (What the pictures do when the movie is played , fade, dissolve, etc).
Dimensions – Full Screen or an actual dimension may be chosen.
*I chose 800 x 600 so the photos would not automatically crop to odd views in Full Screen).
The Second Tab in this window is Slide.
This is where you may change the text of the Title Slide (this is the first picture in your movie).
1. You may choose fonts, and varying styles.
2. You may also change the style of you slide’s template as well as the wording.
3. Type your changes in the box on the left, they will appear on the slide to the right. Double check your spelling.
4. You may also add more slides by clicking on the icon that looks like a rectangle with lines in it. (See photo).
The photos and slides you have placed in your movie can be seen in the “tray” below the main screen. (See photo above).
Almost there!
The third tab in this window is Clips
If you would like add photos you may do so here.
1. To add photos click Get More.
It is the way you want it?
Great.
Return to the Movie tab.
1. Click “Create Movie”.
The movie will take a while to download (mine took about five minutes or less).
The movie will begin when processing is complete.
After the movie ends, if you would like to make any changes it will give you an opportunity to Edit the movie.
You may also return to the Clips page and remove photos after the movie has been processed.
Select individual photos to be removed.
*Remember each edit will take another five or so minutes to process your changes.
After you are satisfied with you film, it will be saved to Picasa under the folder “Movies” (mine was any way)
Before closing out the window, if you would like you may watch the movie again or select the YouTube button and upload the movie to your account.
The finished product can look something like this.
In hope that you have enjoyed the tutorial and that inspiration may strike for your own video, or that you might give it if try, just for fun.
Thank you for stopping by and having a look.
The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant day.
Thursday Tutorial – European Speed Maille Weave
Good Morning,
As usual I am a day late and a dollar short, only backwards. Unprepared for the post today, because I thought it was Friday, a tutorial will just have to suffice.
European Speed Maille Weave is a shortened version of the European 4-in-1pattern for which individual units are created and then linked together with a single jump ring. There is no difference in the appearance of the chain, just in the way it is woven.
European Speed Maille
Materials – Enough for a nice practice piece or it makes a neat Key Chain or Purse Charm.
2 Pairs of Pliers (Flat Nosed)
39 *10mm Aluminum Jump Rings in Teal by Darice (6mm ID)
AR 3.7
*These rings are purchased from a local Craft Store and manufactured by Darice, in packages of 135 rings. One package is plenty to create this short tutorial. We do not recommend these rings for finished projects, but they are great for practice and color design.
Begin:
Open 13 jump rings
Close 26 jump rings.
Set one open ring aside.
Place four (4) closed rings on one open ring and close the ring. Set the unit aside for the moment.
Set up the rest of the rings, pair two closed rings with one open ring. There will be 11 sets of rings.
Or you may place the closed rings on the open ones. Either is fine.
Take the unit you created earlier and arrange the four loose rings so the unit looks like this.
There are now Top and Bottom Rings.
1. Slide one open jump ring DOWN into the bottom ring and UP through the top ring.
The unit looks like this.
2. Add two (2) closed jump rings to the open ring and close the ring. *If you placed your closed rings on the open jump ring before sliding it through the unit just close the ring.
3. Fold or flip the rings you just added in the same position as the previous pair. The unit will look like this.
Repeat Step 1.
Slide one open ring DOWN into the bottom ring and UP through the top ring.
Repeat Step 2.
Add two more rings, and close the open ring.
Fold or flip the rings just added to the correct position and close the ring. *The rings will kind of go there on their own once the chain begins to grow in length.
Pattern Notes: The Open jump ring when added, will sit beneath the previous ring in the row.
Each of the closed rings added will fold to either side of the center ring and lay on top of the previous pair in the chain.
When you have added all of the sets, slide the last open ring (the one you set aside) down through the bottom and up through the top ring and close the ring. This completes and locks the chain pattern into place. Done!
I turned the tutorial into a Key Chain.
If you would like to try this pattern in other sizes or materials you can use the chart at zlosk to check out the required AR sizes.
Thank you for stopping by and having a look.
The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant day.
In The Studio – Round Maille Photo Tutorial
Good Morning,
The week is winding down and it’s time to do something fun.
Many that follow the blog may be aware that I was “invited” to submit the Chainmaille portions of my blog to an e-publisher for on line or on demanding publishing of a book. Very much like a vanity press, but the content is taken directly from your blog instead of creating a new manuscript.
Instead of attempting to contain this blog to a book’s content, a separate one is kept, “In Chains – Contemporary Chainmaille Designs” that will be the final submission for the publishers. In hope of completing the weave instructions followed by eighteen (18) projects to make by the end of year as requested.
Today’s Tutorial: Learn to weave Round Maille
Some may recognize similarities to the Box or Queen’s Chain Pattern (aka Inca Puno), however, this weave does not produce a box or square chain, it is round.
Weave Notes:
This weave is done in multiples of three (3).
* Silver, Green, Rose colored rings are used to indicate steps.
(We do not recommend Darice rings for a finished project, but for practice they are inexpensive, come in a variety of colors and Outer Diameter Sizes)
AR – This weave isn’t terribly AR sensitive, however, it is possible to weave it too tightly or too loosely. I would recommend an AR of 4.1.
You may weave this pattern in single or multiple colors.
There are two ways to weave Round Maille, one is the Fold and Fill Method, as in this tutorial, and the other is like zipping up a pre-made length of chain. This weave belongs to the European Family of weaves / patterns.
Material
21 *10mm 14 gauge Aluminum Jump Rings (5mm ID) by Darice.
Pliers – 2 pairs (Flat nose)
Paperclips, or Markers of some type (twist ties, scrap wire…)
On your marks. Get set. Go.
Pre-Close 6 jump rings
Open 15 jump rings
1. Create a 5 link unit of 2 x 1 Chain (2-1-2-1-2)
2. Open 1 ring and slide it through the last pair of rings. 
and the first pair of rings,
close the ring.
This creates a triangle.
3. Flip the piece over so it looks like this. The Single rings are now on the out side and double rings lie towards the center. You may also pull the single rings outwards and arrange them to reveal the inner triangle as well. 
4. Attach paper clips or
markers to the bottom set of rings. The ones that lie directly on the work surface. This marks the beginning of the chain and gives you something to hold while working the first few sets of rings.
5. Gently push the top rings
into the center forming a
tent. These are rings
1, 2 and 3, in any order
you choose.
6. Open 1 ring and slide
it through jump rings
1 and 2. Close the ring.
7. Open 1 ring and slide
it through jump rings
2 and 3. Close the ring.
8. Open 1 Ring and slide
it through jump rings
3 and 1. Close the ring.
These new rings are now rings
1, 2 and 3
9. Open 1 ring, slide it through
rings 1 and 2. Close the ring.
10. Open 1 ring, slide it through
rings 2 and 3. Close the ring.
11. Open 1 ring, slide it through rings 3 and 1. Close the ring.
You now have a piece of chain that looks like this.
12. Fold the rings just added back against the chain, or allow the rings to fall or flop to the sides of the chain. Separate the rings to reveal the inner triangle.
These are now rings 1, 2 and 3.
13. Fill the center of the chain. “Tent” the exposed inside rings.
Open 1 ring, slide it through
rings 1 and 2. Close the ring.
Rings 1 and 2 in the correct position.
Rings 1 and 2, side view. Add jump ring through the “eye” of both rings.
New ring is added to rings 1 and 2.
New ring added to rings 1 and 2, side view.
14. Open 1 ring, slide it through rings 2 and 3. Close the ring.
15. Open 1 ring, slide it through rings 3 and 1.
Close the ring.
16. Repeat steps 9 through 15 until the chain reaches the desired length.
As you continue with the length of chain you will see a pattern start emerge.
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| Side View |
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| Top View |
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| Top Down View |
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| If it looks like a weird little fish, you‘re doing it right. |
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| 3/4 Profile, Left |
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| 3/4 Profile, Right |
To finish you length of chain.
1. Slide one open ring through jump rings 1 and 2.
2. Slide one open ring through jump rings 2 and 3 or 3 and 1.
3. Slide one open ring through the last 2 jump rings just added and attach either part of your clasp.
4. Remove the markers and repeat on the other end.
Thank you for stopping in and having a look. We love feed back, please feel free to leave your question or comment.
The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant day.
In My Studio – In Chains
Happy New Year!
January 2, 2013 is here and with it a new opportunity to encourage your creativity or just show you something pretty.
Today I have a special sneak-peek at a project that will be well a year into the making. Last year, I received an “invitation” to use an on-line publishing service for my blog. Yes, that’s right you can actually turn your blog into a paper page book that can be printed on demand. Self-publishing, basically, but it was nice to see some one paying attention.
After some thought and a lot of cheering from friends, I gave in and began a new blog that I am in hope of turning into a book. Of course the finished project will look nothing like the blog, but the contents will be basically transferred over, and “type-set” into a book format, with the text and pictures.
Today only, twelve hours, from now until 7:00 p.m. this evening, IN CHAINS is available to the public for a one time preview of the work in progress, it is not complete, and there will be many changes and photo replacements. Comments are disabled! If you would like to make a comment, add a suggestion or just have a question, please feel free to contact us at alchemsitsvessel@gmail.com. Please remember to use “In Chains” in the Subject.
Thank you for stopping in and having a look.
The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a joyful and prosperous new year.
Jens Pind Chainmaille Photo Tutorial In My Studio
Good Morning,
Today in the studio I have been working on a new Chainmaille weave for a variety of items and the post is packed with photos. The Jens Pind Linkage or JPL for short is a spiral weave and very much like a rope pattern. The tight AR (Aspect Ratio) of the rings locks them into place and keeps the weave from unwinding.
The Jens Pind weave, in three colors, to show the pattern. This is a favorite way to weave this pattern, the colors show off the spiral twist of the chain.
Each jump ring is placed through the two prior rings and lines up with the ring of the same color. The jump rings must be linked precisely and in the correct position to achieve the zig-zag stacking effect.
Aspect Ratio is measured by dividing the Inner Diameter (ID) of the jump ring by the Wire Diameter (WD = gauge). It is important to convert the wire gauge into millimeters before dividing. Yes, you have to do math!
AR = ID ÷ WD
Example: 3.0 ÷ 1.024 = 2.92
This would be equivalent to a 3.0mm ID 18 gauge wire jump ring, with an AR of 2.92
It is important to take this into account when working a weave pattern. If the wire is too thick, the inner diameter will not be large enough for the number of the rings that need to pass through it, too thin or the ID too large, the weave (knit) will be too loose with an airy or lacy look. Some Chainmaille patterns are very AR sensitive, as I have found out attempting the Jens Pind. Not terribly complicated, but done with an incorrect AR and you a have an unattractive mess.
Two Color Jens Pind weave, although the rings look the same, they are not, the silver rings are 16g and the Brown are 18g, both rings are 10mm, however for some odd reason they both have an inner diameter of about 5.2. The pattern has a more open weave then the three color chain in the same gauge.
You can see the contrasting rings through the weave, showing that the weave is a little loser than the three color example above.
As you spin or turn the chain the illusion of twisting or spiraling occurs.
Although the position of the rings never changes, they appear to twist through each other depending on the angle of view.
In order to show the detail, I have used 14 g, 16, and 18g, 10mm Anodized Aluminum jump rings purchased from a craft store in all of the example photos. These have an ID of 5 (perhaps 5.2) the AR is 5.2 ÷ 1.628 = 3.2 (3.19) This is a good AR for this particular Chainmaille weave. The correct or optimal AR is somewhere between 2.76 and 3.1
A good tight Jens Pind weave will be supple enough to move fluidly, making it ideal for bracelets, necklaces, and other ornaments and items. Another word about Aspect Ratio, if the AR of any weave is too tight the chain will be stiff and unsuitable for much, including armor, decorative or other wise. Placing the rings properly is crucial if the chain is to be flexible enough for wear or use.
Single color Jens Pind weave. The chain can look different depending on whether you use multiple or single colors of jump rings. I find the single color to be most attractive, but more difficult to weave without the color variation as a visual guide for the ring placement.
These are large chunky chains to show detail. I dislike the rings I purchased, they are poorly cut, some have large burrs or Gargoyle heads and were unacceptable to use, some effort went into sorting and trying to clean them up before the project began. Unfortunately I think another material or another supplier is in order.
Now that we have seen the different looks you can achieve lets take a quick look at how to make this pattern. If you are just learning to weave (knit) maille, may I suggest learning the Half and / or Full Persian weaves before attempting the Jens Pind, it will make more sense if you are familiar with those patterns.
Instructions:
I have tried to be clear, concise and brief in my tutorial, I expect the pictures to be of more help than the written instruction. I will be using Green, Blue and Purple jump rings as in the photo above for easy ring identification and to show the step by step placement of each ring as it is linked into place.
Materials:
Twist Tie
Lot and Lots of jump rings in the correct AR
Two Pairs of pliers (preferably Flat Nosed)
Direction: “Up” = away from you, Down = towards you
1. Close one ring (Green) and connect a twist tie to mark the beginning of the chain.
2. Put one jump ring (Blue) through the first one, close it, and lay it flat against the first one. This will determine how the spiral will form.
3. Add a third jump ring (Purple), by passing it through the eye created by the first two rings and lay it flat against the second ring.
There are now three rings, Green, Blue, Purple (or 1, 2, 3). The purple ring is in the correct position.
4. Add a fourth ring (*Green), this ring should align with the first ring (The one with the twist tie). Slide the ring up through the eye in the previous two rings (blue and purple) making sure it lies behind the first Green ring. Close the ring. *The pattern repeat begins. You can see the zig-zag stacking begin.
5. Rotate the chain so the Blue jump ring arcs over the work.
6. Add the next ring (Blue). Slide the ring down and through the eye of Green and Purple rings and UNDERNEATH (in front of) the previous Blue jump ring.
Each color of the rings must lay in the same direction, as the chain grows it will be easier to see where to place the next ring. Each color ring goes through the same eye as the previous one of the same color.
7. Rotate the chain so the Purple Ring arcs over the work. Add the next ring (purple). Slide the ring up and through the eye of the Green and Blue rings and behind the previous purple ring.
The pattern is beginning to form and you can see how the jump rings are placed in relationship to each other. The Chain needs to be turned to make sure that the rings are lined up in the right position and placed opposite each other.
8. Continue with steps 4 through 7 adding each color (Green, Blue, Purple) of jump ring in order until your length of chain is complete.
There are now seven rings total in the chain, and the third Green, Blue, Purple sequence begins.
Finish with a clasp or link together with a jump ring. Here is a short length sample of the chain we just made, supple enough to make a circle.
Thank you for stopping by and having a look.
The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant day.
Other Sources:
zlosk.com: Maille – Jens Pind Linkage Ring Calculator
Table of AWG Wire Sizes
CUTTLEBONE CASTING PART III – Re-Blog Complete With Pictures
Monday!
I hope every one is still enjoying their Holiday Weekend.
The first time this was posted I was experiences some technical difficulties, and after consulting an iMac savvy friend, I have picture upload once again!
If you would like to follow along or have just started to read here, may I suggest reading (or taking a brief scan)
Cuttlebone Casting Part I – Materials and Model Making
Cuttlebone Casting Part II – Model and Mold Preparation
PART III Casting the project.
TOOLS:
Tin Alloy Soldering Wire (4 tubes, 20 feet)
Stainless Steel Spoon
Mini-Torch
Prepared Cuttlebone Mold
Vice Grip or Prop
Safety Gear
Goggles / Glasses
Gloves, leather shoe strings (something to wrap the spoon handle)
NOTE: The sample casting shown used 2 to 2-1/2 tubes of Tin Alloy Solder, your project may require more or less depending on size of the model and depth of the impression.
SAFETY FIRST! This lesson consists of playing with fire, and I mean literally. Temperatures reach 400 degrees and possibly higher! Be aware of your surroundings and your work area! Remove any and all distractions and make sure you have an uninterrupted block of time in which to work. Although this portion of the process is fairly quick, you must pay attention to what you are doing! Turn off your cell-phone, send the kids outside to play, give the hubby a “Honey-Do” list and feed the dog; you must be and remain focused!
Last time we made a wax model and a mold from simple and easy to obtain materials. Today we are going to complete the process and show the steps for actually casting the piece. The step-by-step process for creating a mold may be read in CuttleboneCasting Part II – Model and Mold Preparation.
The cuttlebone mold is now ready for molten metal. Cuttlebones are naturally heat resistant. This means that they can withstand high heat without distorting in shape, and make wonderful molds for just that reason. They are also a completely natural tool with no added chemicals and won’t harm the environment. Eco-friendly jewelry creation, that’s a plus!
PRE-CASTING PREPARATIONS:
Prepare your work area. Make sure it is free of anything flammable and fluttery that might catch fire or drift into the molten metal. Place your mold in the Vice Grip or other object you have chosen to keep it steady and upright. Get your spoon (or whatever you’re going to use to melt the metal in), torch, and tin alloy lined up, ready to go, and easily accessed!
**TIP: Trim the tin alloy coils into smaller pieces; this will make melting and adding it to the already melted material much easier.
NOTE: Unlike other casting processes that use high-speed centrifuges or kiln (oven) burn out cycles (Lost Wax Casting) to distribute the material to the mold, all that is working here is gravity! Pouring the molten metal into the mold is like filling a glass with sand, the material will be layered as you pour it into the mold.
Here I have the cuttlebone mold in a prop to keep it upright and steady as material is poured. Closed with Rubber bands and waiting for metal to be melted and poured.
MELT THE METAL / FILL THE MOLD:
*The Spoon will reach temperatures of up to 400 degrees (the melting point of the tin alloy is 374-degrees), USE PROTECTIVE MEASURES! Leather gloves or wrap the end with leather shoestrings to keep the heat away form your hands and fingers.
Begin by adding a small amount of the Tin Alloy to the spoon. Cut bits off the coil first to make this easier. Let it sit in the bowl of the spoon. Do not try to melt the whole coil all at once. Using a mini-torch, hold the spoon just above the flame and melt the metal in the spoon, continue to add bits of metal until the spoon is full.
The flame has not been turned on for these pictures, that would be hazardous to my heath and the I’d burn the house down. These are to show the spoon’s position it should be held up and away from the nozzle of your torch and the flame allowed to heat the bowl of the spoon from underneath.
Because the soldering material is a tin / rosin core alloy, you will see the rosin left behind in the spoon, and some smoke may rise as the rosin burns away. That is the brown discoloration on the spoon and mold. Rosin comes from trees and is a brittle solid form of resin, it is used as a flux in some soldering materials to help the metal melt and flow at an even rate. This discoloration will not appear on your piece, this is left behind after the melting process.
NOTE: The molten metal will pool in the bowl of the spoon. Adding pieces of material closer to the pool will help it to melt and incorporate into the ever growing puddle of metal. It will slide around in the spoon hold the spoon steady while melting is in process.
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| Coil melting into pool of molten metal |
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| Melted puddle of metal. |
Continue to add pieces of the Tin Alloy until the spoon is full, or until you think there is enough metal to fill the mold.
Carefully pour the contents of the spoon into the Sprue Hole and down the Sprue Channel.
Repeat the melting and pouring process until your mold is full, if necessary. You will have to look through the Sprue Hole and do a little guessing here to be sure that the material has filled the mold (impression) completely. You DO NOT want to fill the Vent Gates or Sprue Channel, just enough metal to fill the mold of the Cross.
Instant Gratification…. Well almost. After the mold is full, wait a full ten to fifteen minutes for the metal to solidify and harden. The mold will also be cooling down during this time, making it a little easier to handle.
Here you can see the burn mark on the top of mold, where the spoon touched the surface of the cuttlebone. The cuttlebone sits in its prop cooling down while the metal is solidifying.
Once time is up, carefully remove the binding from the outside of the mold, unwind the wire, slip off the rubber bands (whatever was used) gently, keeping the mold closed as you do this. If you used Duct Tape (and I told you not to) you will have to cut it away with a razor-blade where the two halves of the mold meet and split the mold open like a book.
Well looky there! You have a metal pendant! TAH-DAH!
The tin alloy is soft enough that you can drill a hole in the top of the cross using a drill bit and your hand for a bail to be glued (soldered) into place.
FINAL FINISHING:
Using Sandpaper and a file, will “clean” up the casting. Some of the metal over flowed the mold impression and will have to be removed. You can also see the natrual pattern of the cuttlebone has left surface impressions as well. These may be left as is or sanded, filed and polished.
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| Cleaned, sanded and filed casting. The bone’s pattern has created a line in the surface of the cross |
To complete my pendant, I will seat the simulated Garnet into the center hole of the Cross. Using a brass rod that I have ground to a 45-deegree angle at one end, I will finish the pilot hole for the gem and seat it in to place. Using a craft knife or razor blade, I will then create PRONGS by scraping some of the metal from the Cross up and over the gemstone in four evenly spaced places around the stone’s setting.
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| Complete Cross before scrapping prongs and final polishing. |
Although this will leave dents in the exterior of the Cross surface, it will help secure the stone into place.
After the gemstone setting is complete I will use a Polishing Cloth (these have chemicals embedded in the material) and gently rub the surface of the piece, polishing it and giving a little shine.
It is now ready to be displayed or worn on chain or lanyard.
Thank you so much for stopping by and having a look, and if you have followed the whole series, thank you for sticking with us. We hope you have enjoyed this brief look in to one of the many casting processes available and used for jewelry-making.
The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant day.
**Want something like this, but don’t want to do it yourself? Custom work is available. All custom molding projects begin at $50.00 this includes Design materials and Mock Up of your custom piece before casting. Precious Metals are available for this process.
Quick Pictorial Tutorial Thursday
Good Morning!
The week is winding down and so am I. Today I thought it would be fun to look at an easy and relaxing jewelry-making craft, Wire Wrapped Rings. Yes, I said, relaxing. This is actually a really fun and super simple project. Even the kids can do it! One of the best things about this project is that it takes just minutes to do.
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| Wire-Wrapped Rings in Sterling Silver plated Copper jewelry wire |
I think every jewelry blogger, designer, maker, or hobbyist, eventually sits down to write about or make one of these simple and pretty little rings. This includes myself.
All you need:
Jewelry Wire – *20 or 18 gauge (any type) Colored (anodized) Aluminum works well, too.
(*I do not recommend 16 gauge or 14 gauge)
Permanent Marker or Lip Balm (or any round object – a “mandrel”)
Pliers – if you like.
*Extra Embellishments (not necessary, but fun to play with).
Button
Glass Seed Beads (Size 6)
NOTE: Jewelry wire comes in lengths measured in yards, usually between 8 to 10 yards per coil, that’s 24 to 30 feet of wire. You can make lots, and lots of rings with a single coil. The Sterling Silver Plated Copper jewelry wire I used for this project is packaged by Darice and available at local craft stores for about $3.99 for 8 yrds.
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| Simple Tools and Wire |
First measure and cut two pieces of wire 8″ long.
Gently fold them in half.
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| Don’t let the ends cross. |
Put them together and place the marker, balm, or other round object ( “mandrel” about the size of your finger), in the fold. Bend the wires around the marker or balm with your fingers.
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| Don’t let the ends cross, keep each wire next to each other. |
Next, Adjust the wire where you want it. *Remember it will be a little looser at this stage. That is OK. With your fingers, hold the bottom of the wire against the madrel, with your other hand, take the wires between your fingers and twist in a clockwise motion, locking the wires together (like a twist tie). Keep the wire as tight as possible against the mandrel as you twist. Twist only once.
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| Twist the wires once, clockwise. |
You may take a pair of pliers or your fingers and bring (pinch) the loops together.
Now continue to twist the wires, one group of two at a time around each other twice or three times. Stop. Can you see the “rosette” forming in the center of the ring? Good.
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| The Rosette is formed and wires are divided. |
Now, divide the wires. Decide which wires will continue forming the rosette and which to pull away from the center. Do not cut the wire. Above the wires closest to the rosette have been left in place, the others have been stretched out and away from the center of the ring.
Continuing wrapping around the center wire forming a larger (or smaller) rosette as you choose.
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| The Rosette is complete, the wrapped wire is now much shorter. |
Trim the excess wire from the Rosette. You may wish to leave a little extra to bend over and tuck under the edges of your ring. I did not do that in this example. However this helps to keep the wire from snagging and possibly ruining the ring.
Next, and this can be a little tricky. Remove the ring from the madndrel, choose one side of the ring and begin wrapping the other length of wire around the shank (round part) of the ring. It helps to bend the wire slightly so it slips into the center of the ring. Wrap the wire down the shank. Make sure to wrap both sides. This will help the ring keep its shape, make it a little smaller in diameter, and adds an interesting design element as well.
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| One side is of the shank wrap is complete here is the other side in progress. |
Make sure that the wire ends are on top of your ring shank, cut off the excess wire, keeping the ends up and away from your skin so you do not scratch yourself.
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| The complete ring on the marker (mandrel). |
You can wear the ring on any finger it will fit on or that you have sized it for.
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| Pretty little bauble |
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| Completed ring. |
You can also bead the last twist of the wire around the rosette if you like or you can use a button as a focal point. As shown in the alternatives below.
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| Black Czech Glass Seed Beads adorn the side of the rosette. |
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| Shell Button Ring |
The button ring is made using the same technique. Once the wire has been placed around the mandrel, side the wire through the thread holes in the button. Bring the button down as close as you can to the mandrel, and then twist the wires together. Instead of separating the wires and wrapping them down the shank, use all four to form the rosette in the center of the button, cut off the excess wire and wear for fun or with Kitschy fashions!
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| Reddish-Orange Shell Button with complete rosette |
There are many other ways to add to or embellish the ring. Why not try glass bi-cone beads or a gemstone or maybe even a crystal. Perhaps a charm or other interesting object, like a gear or tiny vacuum tube could be wrapped as well. The possibilities are endless. What might you design?
T.A.V. would like to thank Carrie S. for the use of her camera.
Thank you for stopping in and having a look. We hope you found this tutorial interesting and will try a wire-wrapped ring of your own.
The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant Thursday.
Cuttlebone Casting Part III – Casting The Piece
Hello,
Please note, due to technical difficulties some of the photos for this tutorial are not shown (photo error), this post will be updated once the photo upload decides to cooperate. We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause and are working to rectify the situation.
This is the final stage in casting a piece of jewelry with a cuttlebone mold. If you have not been following along or have just discovered this series, please refer to the previous posts for an overview.
Cuttlebone Casting – Part II Model and Mold Preparation
PART III Casting the project.
TOOLS:
Tin Alloy Soldering Wire (4 tubes, 20 feet)
Stainless Steel Spoon
Mini-Torch
Prepared Cuttlebone Mold
Vice Grip or Prop
Safety Gear
Goggles / Glasses
Gloves, leather shoe strings (something to wrap the spoon handle)
NOTE: The sample casting shown used 2 to 2-1/2 tubes of Tin Alloy Solder, your project may require more or less depending on size of the model and depth of the impression.
SAFETY FIRST! This lesson consists of playing with fire, and I mean literally. Temperatures reach 400 degrees and possibly higher! Be aware of your surroundings and your work area! Remove any and all distractions and make sure you have an uninterrupted block of time in which to work. Although this portion of the process is fairly quick, you must pay attention to what you are doing! Turn off your cell-phone, send the kids outside to play, give the hubby a “Honey-Do” list and feed the dog; you must be and remain focused!
Last time we made a wax model and a mold from simple and easy to obtain materials. Today we are going to complete the process and show the steps for actually casting the piece. The step-by-step process for creating a mold may be read in CuttleboneCasting Part II – Model and Mold Preparation.
The cuttlebone mold is now ready for molten metal. Cuttlebones are naturally heat resistant. This means that they can withstand high heat without distorting in shape, and make wonderful molds for just that reason. They are also a completely natural tool with no added chemicals and won’t harm the environment. Eco-friendly jewelry creation, that’s a plus!
PRE-CASTING PREPARATIONS:
Prepare your work area. Make sure it is free of anything flammable and fluttery that might catch fire or drift into the molten metal. Place your mold in the Vice Grip or other object you have chosen to keep it steady and upright. Get your spoon (or whatever you’re going to use to melt the metal in), torch, and tin alloy lined up, ready to go, and easily accessed!
**TIP: Trim the tin alloy coils into smaller pieces; this will make melting and adding it to the already melted material much easier.
(Photo error)
NOTE: Unlike other casting processes that use high-speed centrifuges or kiln (oven) burn out cycles (Lost Wax Casting) to distribute the material to the mold, all that is working here is gravity! Pouring the molten metal into the mold is like filling a glass with sand, the material will be layered as you pour it into the mold.
Here I have the cuttlebone mold in a prop to keep it upright and steady as material is poured. Closed with Rubber bands and waiting for metal to be melted and poured.
MELT THE METAL / FILL THE MOLD:
*The Spoon will reach temperatures of up to 400 degrees (the melting point of the tin alloy is 374-degrees), USE PROTECTIVE MEASURES! Leather gloves or wrap the end with leather shoestrings to keep the heat away form your hands and fingers.
Begin by adding a small amount of the Tin Alloy to the spoon. Cut bits off the coil first to make this easier. Let it sit in the bowl of the spoon. Do not try to melt the whole coil all at once. Using a mini-torch, hold the spoon just above the flame and melt the metal in the spoon, continue to add bits of metal until the spoon is full.
The flame has not been turned on for these pictures, that would be hazardous to my heath and the I’d burn the house down. These are to show the spoon’s position it should be held up and away from the nozzle of your torch and the flame allowed to heat the bowl of the spoon from underneath.
Because the soldering material is a tin / rosin core alloy, you will see the rosin left behind in the spoon. That is the brown discoloration you see. Rosin comes from trees and is a brittle solid form of resin, it is used as a flux in some soldering materials to help the metal melt and flow at an even rate. This discoloration will not appear on your piece, this is left behind after the melting process.
NOTE: The molten metal will pool in the bowl of the spoon. Adding pieces of material closer to the pool will help it to melt and incorporate into the ever growing puddle of metal. It will slide around in the spoon hold the spoon steady while melting is in process.
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Continue to add pieces of the Tin Alloy until the spoon is full.
Carefully pour the contents of the spoon into the Sprue Hole and down the Sprue Channel.
Repeat the melting and pouring process until your mold is full, you will have to look through the Sprue Hole and do a little guessing here to be sure that the material has filled the mold (impression) completely. You DO NOT want to fill the Vent Gates or Sprue Channel, just enough metal to fill the mold of the Cross.
Instant Gratification…. Well almost. After the mold is full, wait a full ten to fifteen minutes for the metal to solidify and harden. The mold will also be cooling down during this time, making it a little easier to handle.
Here you can see the burn mark on the top of mold, where the spoon touched the surface of the cuttlebone. Here the cuttlebone sits in its prop cooling down while the metal is solidifying.
Once time is up, carefully remove the binding from the outside of the mold, unwind the wire, slip off the rubber bands (whatever was used) gently, keeping the mold closed as you do this. If you used Duct Tape (and I told you not to) you will have to cut it away with a razor-blade where the two halves of the mold meet and split the mold open like a book.
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Well looky there! You have a metal pendant! TAH-DAH!
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The tin alloy is soft enough that you can drill a hole in the top of the cross using a drill bit and your hand for a bail to be glued (soldered) into place.
FINAL FINISHING:
To complete my pendant, I will seat the simulated Garnet into the center hole of the Cross. Using a brass rod that I have ground to a 45-deegree angle at one end, I will finish the pilot hole for the gem and seat it in to place. Using a craft knife or razor blade, I will then create PRONGS by scraping some of the metal from the Cross up and over the gemstone in four evenly spaced places around the stone’s setting.
Although this will leave dents in the exterior of the Cross surface, it will help secure the stone into place.
After the gemstone setting is complete I will use a Polishing Cloth (these have chemicals embedded in the material) and gently rub the surface of the piece, polishing it and giving a little shine.
It is now ready to be displayed or worn on chain or lanyard.
Thank you so much for stopping by and having a look, and if you have followed the whole series, thank you for sticking with us. We hope you have enjoyed this brief look in to one of the many casting processes available and used for jewelry-making.
The Alchemists Vessel would like to wish you a pleasant day.
**Want something like this, but don’t want to do it yourself? Custom work is available. All custom molding projects begin at $50.00 this includes Design materials and Mock Up of your custom piece before casting in the material of your choice! Precious Metals are available for this process. Please feel free to return for the updated post, once I get the photos to cooperate!
